Escargot at FAB strike a classic pose but need to be hotter
The Atlanta area has always had plenty of little French cafes, like Buckhead’s Anis and Decatur’s Cafe Alsace. If you want to eat a salade nicoise under a framed Toulouse Lautrec poster, you will find your heart’s desire in this town.
We’ve also had a few great French chefs plying their trade in this city throughout the years — people like Jean Banchet at Riviera (now Antica Posta), Joel Antunes at Joel, and Arnaud Berthelier at the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead.
But until recently we’ve never had much of a brasserie culture. We haven’t had those places that dispense that uniquely French vision of dining — a marriage of a grand, boisterous space to a menu steeped in the tradition-minded classics from the French comfort food repertoire.
Now we have three. French American Brasserie — aka FAB — reboots the menu from Lenox Square’s Brasserie Le Coze, once the only game in town. Au Pied de Cochon is a …