Some dessert menus skew toward chocolate — a basic flavor pole around which the ancillary flavors of nuts, butterscotch and marshmallow revolve. If there is a fruit dessert, it will likely be something heavier, such as pear-caramel cake, or a chocolate and banana confab.
I find these kinds of desserts easy to pass on after dinner. I love them, but really think such dense sweets taste better in the afternoon with a cup of coffee than following a big meal.
But I am a sucker for fruit-based desserts. When I went to Market Buckhead recently to write up a burger of the week, I couldn’t resist this concoction. It’s a coconut flan with candied kumquats, lime whipped cream and toasted coconut. What an amazing combination of flavors! I particularly loved the way the barely sweetened cream flecked with lime zest added such a sparkly top note.
True, it was pretty rich. I either resisted eating it all or thought about resisting it all, but this was one of the better desserts I’ve …