Author: Bargaineering.com

  • Find Your Missing Money

    This is your friendly reminder to check MissingMoney.com for any assets you may have forgotten about. MissingMoney.com is a website endorsed by the National Association of Unclaimed Property Administrators and the best place to begin your search for unclaimed assets.

    Also, in twenty four states, unused gift cards are considered unclaimed property after five years. Depending on the laws of your state, the value of the gift cards, minus maintenance fees, must be turned over to the state government as unclaimed property. Remember, the CARD Act prevents gift cards from expiring for five years so in the coming years you may see more of your gift cards turned over as unclaimed assets. As of late last year, Colorado had more than $13 million worth of unused gift cards, so this isn’t a negligible amount.

    I check every state I’ve ever lived in, as you never know when property will be “released” to the unclaimed assets division. Finding out whether you have an unclaimed assets should take you only a few minutes, claiming the assets will take a little longer depending on the process of the state.

    Jim writes about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.

  • IRS Pays Good Money for Tax Snitches

    If you know someone is cheating on their taxes and your pulse quickens at the thought of the IRS paying you, then then check out the IRS Whistleblower – Informant Award program. It’s a program that rewards you for providing “specific and credible information” that the IRS can use to collect “taxes, penalties, interest, and other amounts” from a cheat.

    This isn’t a “my neighbor next door can’t possible afford that new Porsche he bought” type of information, we’re talking specifics and, in most cases, documents. In most cases it’s business related, with the whistleblower being someone privvy to sensitive documents such as a banker or administrative assistant.

    How much can you earn? There are two types of awards based on some qualifications, the first of which is dollar amount:

    • Amounts in dispute are greater than $2,000,000 or individuals with more than $200,000 of annual gross income – IRS pays 15-30% of the amount collected.
    • Amounts in dispute are less than $2,000,000 or individuals with less than $200,000 of annual gross income – IRS pays 15% of the amount collected up to $10,000,000 (if you’re wondering how the math works out, this award can also be discretionary, which accounts for the disconnect).

    If you have reams of damaging documents and are wondering where to go, the IRS explains how you file a Whistleblower Award Claim.

    With our national debt nearing $13 trillion dollars, we can use all the help we can get!

    Jim doesn’t cheat on his taxes and can usually be found writing about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.

  • How to Check Your Tax Refund Online

    Despite how antiquated some of our tax laws seem to be, the IRS itself has truly embraced the internet and provided a great tool for you to check the status of your refund. You can use this tool to track your return 72 hours after you’ve e-filed (which is a good reason to e-file!) or three to four weeks if you filed a paper return. Unfortunately, if you amended your return, you will not be able to use this system.

    It’s very easy to check the status of your tax refund online, collect these three pieces of information:

    • Your social security number (if filed jointly, either social security number will work)
    • Your filing status
    • Your refund amount, to the whole dollar amount

    Then, visit this Refund Status page (Spanish version), enter your information, and you will be provided the status of your refund.

    Even if you don’t care when your refund will arrive, check anyway because this is one of the few times you will be able to get an answer from a government agency in under 5 hours of waiting.

    Jim writes about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.

  • What is the Yield Curve?

    If you’ve been watching or reading much economic news, invariably you would’ve heard of the term yield curve. It refers to the interest rates on Treasury debt and it’s important because it can give us a quick glimpse at the health of our economy. If you’ve ever wondered what it was, here’s a crash course.

    Vanguard, in their latest In The Vanguard, has a great explanation of what yield curves are. In short, there are three types:

    • Normal – where interest rates rise as you increase the maturity time
    • Flat – where interest rates rise in a nearly horizontal line as you increase maturity time
    • Inverted – where interest rates fall as you increase maturity time

    The yield curve means different things to different people, as we are always looking to invest and save in different products. For economists and talking heads, they are referring to the interest rate on Treasury debt, like notes and bonds. For the rest of us, the yield curve we care about is usually something like CD rates. Whatever the underlying asset, the idea is still the same.

    Why are they popular for economics? Inverted yield curves have preceded many recessions. The yield curve inverted in 2000 just before the dot com bust. The yield curve was inverted again in early 2007, which preceded our more recent crisis. Is it a perfect predictor? No, but it’s good enough to keep some people on television.

    How does it affect us? When the curve is normal or flat, we understand that we are getting a higher interest rate for locking up our money for a longer period of time. 5-year CD rates are higher than 1-year CD rates and we understand why. When the curve is inverted, we get confused because instead of being rewarded, we are being penalized for giving up flexibility. Fortunately, I’ve never seen a bank’s CD rates form an inverted curve.

    While the yield curve has little impact on our daily lives, it’s still important to understand what it means from a broader perspective.

    Jim writes about money at his personal finance blog, Bargaineering.com.

  • Avoid Refund Anticipation Loans

    Every year around tax time, we can expect a healthy dose of advertising by tax preparers about how they can guarantee the highest refunds, the fastest refunds, and audit protection. One product that makes them huge profits is a refund anticipation loan. After you’ve worked with a tax preparer to finish your return, they will undoubtedly ask if you’d like to receive your refund even faster. Everyone wants to get their money faster right? Just beware the very expensive catch.

    Refund anticipation loans are extremely expensive because you have to pay fees, such as application and administrative fees, for what amounts to a very short term, very safe loan. With electronic filing, a tax preparer knows whether there are any problems with a return within twenty four hours of electronic submission. If the return is free from math errors, then the IRS will usually pay out the return within a week or two, barring inconsistencies with other forms like your W-2 or 1099-INTs. If you opt for direct deposit and you electronically file, you can get your return in as quickly as a single week.

    In 2004, 12 million people got RALs and the average was an effective 178% interest on a 10 day loan (based on the average refund size of $2,150) according to the NCLC/CFA 2006 Refund Anticipation Loan report. In the current economy, with people strapped for cash, I wouldn’t be surprised if all the numbers in that sentence were to increase.

    When you consider that current savings account rates are less than 2%, paying 178% looks even more absurd. Instead of getting a RAL, do your taxes as early as possible! You have almost all the information you need by the time February ends, so if you are due a refund, file immediately. If you are really in a pinch, consider borrowing some money from friends and family before you pay ridiculous fees to a tax preparer!

    Finally, even if they don’t say “refund anticipation loans,” you might be signing up for one if they promise to give you your refund immediately. Last year, mystery shoppers exposed deceptive RAL practices at many popular tax preparers.

    Beware refund anticipation loans in sheep’s clothing.

    Jim writes about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.

  • Boost Your Tax Refund with an IRA Contribution

    One of the nice things about preparing your taxes, and this is probably the only nice thing, is that if you overpaid your taxes then you’ll get your money back. If you’re getting anywhere near last year’s average tax refund of $2700, let me suggest an idea that could give you an even larger tax refund.

    If you haven’t made a contribution to an IRA for 2009, consider taking your refund and putting it towards a deductible Traditional IRA. If you qualify for a tax deduction on Traditional IRA contributions, then you will see an even larger refund. The net cash in your pocket will be lower, since you’ve contributed a large sum into your Traditional IRA, but you will pay less in taxes and likely thank yourself when you retire. If you make a contribution, remember to adjust your tax return to reflect this contribution so you get a bigger return.

    In addition to lowering your tax liability, you also lower your adjusted gross income and potentially trigger the Saver’s Credit. This may allow you to take deductions that were phased out for you, such as the earned income tax credit. Contributions to a tax deductible IRA will reduce your adjusted gross income but are not factored into your modified adjusted gross income (in other words, the contribution is added back to calculate your MAGI).

    There are some big caveats to this idea.

    First, not everyone can deduct contributions to a Traditional IRA and the rules for how much you can deduct can be a little convoluted, but outlined in Chapter 1 of Publication 590. Consult a tax professional for your specific case but in general you are not eligible to deduct contributions if you have access to an employer retirement plan and your modified AGI is over $66,000 (single) or $109,000 (married filed jointly). You can read the deduction rules in this part of Pub 590.

    The Roth IRA and Traditional IRA share the same contribution limits, which is $5,000 for 2009 ($6,000 if you’re 50+). If you contribute $1,000 towards your Roth, you may only contribute $4,000 to your Traditional. Given the option, I believe that contributing to a Roth is better than contributing to a tax deductible Traditional IRA as I believe tax rates will go up in the future.

    Finally, even if you file electronically and get your refund in less than 10 days, you still need to find a way to float yourself the money in the interim. Depending on the size of your refund and how large of a contribution you want to make, this may be a difficult task. If you don’t want to or can’t float the money, you can always file your return, get your refund, make a contribution before April 15th, and then file an amended 1040X return.

    Despite all the caveats, this may be an attractive option for some people out there and I’m curious to hear your thoughts on it. Good idea or more work than its worth?

    Jim writes about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.

  • Keep Tax Records for 7 Years

    As you finish up your taxes this year, it may be tempting to take all those papers and make yourself a nice little bonfire… don’t. You will want to keep those tax records for at least seven years.

    You have three years from the filing to date to file an amended return if you’ve made an error (the IRS owes billions to taxpayers who were due a refund but didn’t file a return). The IRS has three years to audit you if they believe you’ve made a mistake and six years if they believe 25% or more of your income was not reported. If you failed to file a return or you filed a fraudulent return, there is no statute of limitations on initiating an inquiry.

    What should you keep? I recommend keeping everything you use to prepare your taxes, you’ll need it to survive a tax audit, but it’s most important to keep documentation of your deductions. If you claimed the standard deduction then you have less to worry about but itemizers should have proof of everything they’ve claimed on their return. If you are audited, you want to avoid having to searching for documentation years after the fact.

    Store it electronically. If you prepared it online, save a copy of the return locally and put it with your other financial records. Invest in a scanner, or borrow one from a friend, and scan the supporting documents. You can store electronic files indefinitely but remember to regularly back up these records.

    Seven years may seem like a long time to keep a stack of papers but it’s better than scrambling to find proof of a deduction many years later. If you’re going through your records and can’t find a return you filed in the last seven years, you can request a copy from the IRS. Don’t request one unless you have a compelling reason because it takes only two weeks.

    Jim writes about personal finance at his blog Bargaineering.com.

  • Always File A Tax Return

    The U.S. Treasury currently owes $1.3 billion to taxpayers for overpaid taxes on their 2006 tax return? It’s important because the deadline to file a tax return for 2006 is April 15th, 2010. After that date, those taxpayers are no longer entitled to their refund. With money as tight as it is, you might be pleasantly surprised at what you, or someone you know, could get if you didn’t file in 2006.

    Why would someone due a tax refund not file a return? Simple, it’s not uncommon for someone to see that their income falls below the filing requirements (usually you’re in the first or second federal income tax brackets) and just skip it because they’re too busy or think they wouldn’t get a refund. However, if you’re working and your employer is withholding taxes, you are probably due one. 2006 was the year of the telephone excise refund, which was free money in your pocket if you filed, and you could have qualified for a refund that way.

    I think that it’s always worth it to prepare a return to see if you were due a refund. Online tax preparation tools like TurboTax will let you prepare your return for free (and even file it for free if you satisfy certain requirements) to see if you’re due a refund. If you are, file, if not, you just spent a little bit of time knowing for sure. Last year, the average tax refund was over $2,600, you owe it to yourself to spend an hour preparing them (which is about how long it should take if you’re situation is simple enough that you’re considering not filing in the first place).

    Some additional caveats:

  • To get your 2006 refund, you’ll need to file 2007, 2008, and 2009 tax returns.
  • This doesn’t apply to refunds that failed to reach the taxpayer, you are still entitled to that and can track it down by using the IRS’s Where’s My Refund tool.
  • You must file a paper return, you can find those forms here. You’ll need to track down the old W-2s and 1099s (and every other form) too, but it could be worth it.
  • Jim normally tackles fun personal finance topics like this one at Bargaineering.com.

  • Three Reasons You Should EFile

    Every year, the IRS shares statistics of how many returns are filed on paper and how many are filed electronically. Last year, tax year 2008, 90 million individual tax returns were filed electronically. While that number seems large, that means 40 million individual tax returns are still filed manually… on paper… and mailed through the postal system. While that probably makes the postmaster very happy, it’s not good for you or the IRS.

    Unless you have a compelling reason not to file electronically and here are three reasons why:
    1. Your return is processed faster and your refund, if you’re due one, is sent faster. The IRS states that if you e-file and opt for direct deposit, you should expect your return in about three weeks. If you have a simple return, you can expect a refund in as few as eight days. If you file a paper return and opt for a paper check, it will take eight weeks. Getting your tax refund, last year’s average tax refund was $2,700, faster means you get access to it faster.

    Part of the reason for the delay in paper returns is because they need to enter your data manually, which increases the probability that someone makes a mistake. When you file electronically, you skip this potential mistake.

    2. E-filed returns can’t get lost in the mail. While computer glitches are possible, you’re more likely to have your return lost in the mail than lost in the tubes of the Interwebs. When you e-file, the IRS will give you electronic confirmation that they received (or rejected) your return within 24 hours. If there is a glitch, you know about it much sooner. The IRS won’t notify you if you mail in a paper return.

    3. E-filed returns can’t get stolen in the mail. Identity theft is a serious problem these days and while the likelihood of your return being stolen is slim, especially if you drop it off at the post office, it’s still possible. When you e-file your return through a secure and encrypted connection, your details can’t be stolen in transit.

    If you e-file through a tax preparer, there may be a fee involved for e-filing but you may qualify for free e-filing, also known as the IRS freefile program, depending on your income.

    Jim writes about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.

  • Buy Series I Bonds with Your Tax Refund

    The Treasury Department and the IRS have joined forces to allow you the ability to buy Series I Bonds directly with your tax refund. Series I bonds are thirty-year bonds that accrue interest based on a fixed rate, associated with the time you buy the bond and never changes, and an inflation rate, which changes every May and November.

    How do you buy the bonds? Fill out IRS Form 8888, Direct Deposit of Refund to More Than One Account, and put 043736881 as the routing number and BONDS as the account number. If your refund is in exact multiples of $50, you don’t need Form 8888, just put those details directly into your tax return.

    Your bonds will be paper certificates and will arrive three weeks after your return is processed.

    How is the interest rate calculated? The interest rate of the bond is calculated using a composite rate made up of the bond’s fixed rate and a floating inflation rate. You can use this Series I bond interest rate calculator, which includes the equation, to calculate the interest rate.

    As of this writing, the fixed rate is 0.30%, the inflation rate is 1.53%, so Series I bonds bought today would yield around 3.365%.

    Is this a good idea? I think Series I bonds can be a good investment but being able to buy them directly offers no significant advantage. You can buy Series I bonds just by visiting your bank and there is no sales fee or commission.

    You can learn more by reading the Treasury Direct FAQ on using your income tax refund to buy Series I savings bonds. Also, this page gives you all the details on Series I bonds.

    Jim writes about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.

  • Are Credit Card Rewards Taxable?

    As you prepare your taxes, you might be wondering if you owe taxes on any credit card rewards or cash back dollars you may have received over the last year. The short answer is “probably no,” but unfortunately the IRS has provided no definitive answer and I’m of the belief they prefer it that way.

    The only hint that we have is a private letter ruling from 2002 (PLR200228001) that stated that “The rebates are not includible in Taxpayer’s gross income, whether they are donated to charity or retained personally.” The taxpayer’s original inquiry appears to be whether charitable contributions made in credit card rewards were legitimate deductions (they are) and the IRS continued to state that the rebates are not included in gross income, which is to say that credit card rewards are not taxed as income. A PLR is only applicable to the taxpayer it is sent to but this gives us a good idea of the IRS’s thinking. (earlier that year, the IRS stated that they would not be taxing frequent flier miles)

    Finally, in IRS Publication 17, the IRS has stated that a cash rebate on a purchase is not considered income. Tax professionals, in general, are of the belief that credit card rewards and cash back fall into the cash rebate category, rather than the earned income category.

    Jim writes about personal finance at Bargaineering.com.