{"id":104856,"date":"2009-12-23T17:03:07","date_gmt":"2009-12-23T22:03:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.grist.org\/article\/2009-12-23-bottom-line-cocoa-holiday\/"},"modified":"2009-12-23T17:03:07","modified_gmt":"2009-12-23T22:03:07","slug":"in-a-tasting-of-seven-eco-cocoas-only-one-hits-the-mark","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/104856","title":{"rendered":"In a tasting of seven eco-cocoas, only one hits the mark"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\t\t\t\tby Lou Bendrick <\/p>\n<p>Can eco-cocoas melt away holiday stress?Photo: Jason HoustonLet&#8217;s just say for the sake of argument, that you&#8217;re a little busy this time of year. (This is the part where you snort, as if to say, &#8220;You have no idea, sister.&#8221;) Also, let&#8217;s say that it&#8217;s cold outside where you live. (Is the pope an old German guy?) Lastly, let&#8217;s assume that, because you&#8217;re reading this on an environmental news site, you have green inclinations.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p>This all leads me to conclude that what you need at this very moment is a steaming cup of hot cocoa that is not only quick but also environmentally principled.&nbsp; (I.E., not made by the handful of corporations known as &#8220;Big Chocolate&#8221; that buy cacao from heavily sprayed plantations and pay farmers poverty wages or, worse yet, use child labor. )<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p>For you, my frozen, frantic reader, I bullied my friends assembled a panel of tasters, one of whom brought a light-up holiday animal that resembled an electrified Westie (see photo).&nbsp; I supplied the organic cocoa mixes, a can of whipped cream for the kids, and an array of kitschy mugs.&nbsp; (Note: The kids, much to their disappointment, were left out of this tasting. I thought it best to avoid full-blown pancreatic shut-down during the holidays.)<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p>Please note: Most of these products were powdered mixes (just add water, milk or your &#8220;favorite non-dairy alternative&#8221;), but in one case we tried a quickie beverage made from chocolate &#8220;discs.&#8221; The mixes were largely certified organic as well. They were also, comparatively speaking, pricey. You can get a honkin&#8217; 50-pack box (50 ounces) of Swiss Miss hot coca mix for $12.49 at Staples. (Of course, why the hell you&#8217;d want to buy any &#8220;food&#8221; at Staples is beyond me.)&nbsp; I paid substantially more in general for the eco hot chocolate drinks&#8212;in one case I ponied up $13.95 for 3.5 ounces (go ahead, exhale that breath you just sucked in) for the discs.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p>How did they taste? Read on.<br \/>Our results:<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/><a href=\"http:\/\/www.greenandblacks.com\/us\/what-we-make\/hot-chocolate\/hot-chocolate.html\"><\/a><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.greenandblacks.com\/us\/what-we-make\/hot-chocolate\/hot-chocolate.html\">Green &amp; Black&#8217;s organic hot chocolate drink<\/a><\/strong><br \/>Ingredients: Organic raw cane sugar, organic fat-reduced cocoa powder, organic dark chocolate powder (organic chocolate liquor, organic raw cane sugar, organic cocoa butter, soy lecithin, (emulsifier), organic vanilla extract).<br \/>Price: $4.29 (on sale), for 5.3 ounces<br \/>Special notes: Sports the USDA organic seal. Directions call for hot milk rather than hot water, which you&#8217;d think would make your beverage somehow better.<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>Who knew hot cocoa mix could taste tannic? This mix made our tasters pucker.&nbsp; &#8220;That&#8217;s not right,&#8221; quipped one taster who sported a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.buyuglysweaters.com\/\">festive holiday sweater<\/a>. She then reached for the whipped cream. Strangest comment: &#8220;Kind of vegetal.&#8221; Most passionate comment:&nbsp; &#8220;What the hell are people thinking?&#8221; Kindest comment: &#8220;It&#8217;s not that bad,&#8221; said one taster, who, it should be disclosed, was jet-lagged to the point of stupor because he had just returned from an international trip wherein he ate cicada thoraxes and chicken feet, and whose opinion no one trusted.<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/><a href=\"http:\/\/www.worldpantry.com\/cgi-bin\/ncommerce3\/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=3176204&amp;prrfnbr=3277670&amp;pcgrfnbr=3262753\"><\/a><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.worldpantry.com\/cgi-bin\/ncommerce3\/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=3176204&amp;prrfnbr=3277670&amp;pcgrfnbr=3262753\">Dagoba organic drinking chocolate<\/a><\/strong><br \/>Ingredients: Organic cane sugar, organic coca, organic&nbsp; chocolate, organic milk (less than 0.1%)<br \/>Price: $6.99 for 12 ounces<br \/>Special notes: Certified organic and fair trade certified. The directions for this mix included this line: &#8220;When the vapors of the milk rise the milk will be at its most receptive to accept the chocolate into its embrace.&#8221; Sorta sexy, in<a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=xm3xlJ0yQOE\"> this way<\/a>! This, um, sexyness, might be due to the fact that Dagoba&#8217;s eccentric founder, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.frederickschilling.com\/\">Frederick Schilling<\/a>,&nbsp; according to an inside source is &#8220;way hot.&#8221; Then again, Dagoba was bought by Hershey&#8217;s (see Big Chocolate, above.)<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>Again, tasters were freaked out by the smell: In this case, &#8220;like the inside of a tire.&#8221; Though the panel thought this drink was creamier than the others, some found it to have a bitter aftertaste.&nbsp; The bug-eater thought it had a &#8220;more of a darker chocolate flavor.&#8221; To be fair though, this mix may have been more chocolatey because the directions called for four tablespoons of the stuff per your &#8220;favorite mug.&#8221;&nbsp; (As opposed to the more common two-tablespoon-per-favorite-mug directive.)<br \/>&nbsp;<strong><br \/><\/strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.fullcirclefoods.com\/\"><\/a><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.fullcirclefoods.com\/\">Full Circle Organic Milk Chocolate Flavor Hot Cocoa Mix<\/a><\/strong><br \/>Ingredients: Organic dehydrated can juice solids, organic whey, organic non-fat dry milk, organic cocoa (processed with alkalai), sea salt, calcium carbonate, natural vanilla flavor, xanthan gum (a natural vegetable product).<br \/>Price: $3.49 for 10 1-ounce packets<br \/>Special notes: Certified organic. This is my conventional grocery store&#8217;s bargain brand of organic products. Slogan: &#8220;Return to a natural way of living.&#8221;<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>For those prone of nostalgia, this is the most Swiss-Missy of the cocoa mixes&#8212;or, as one taster put it, it&#8217;s &#8220;the cocoa of my youth.&#8221; Like all of the add-water mixes, its texture is depressingly thin. Overall, tasters found it to be &#8220;synthetic&#8221; and &#8220;overly sweet.&#8221; Strangest comment: &#8220;It tastes like Playdoh!&#8221; Most damning: &#8220;You can get way better stuff at the ski lodge.&#8221; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=nzXKWKaxt3c\">Ouch<\/a>.<br \/>&nbsp;<strong><br \/><\/strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.equalexchange.coop\/cocoa\"><\/a><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.equalexchange.coop\/cocoa\">Equal Exchange Organic and Fairly Traded Hot Cocoa<\/a><\/strong><br \/>Ingredients: Fair trade certified organic evaporated sugar cane juice, organic nonfat dry milk powder, fair trade certified organic cocoa-processed with alkali, organic guar gum, sea salt, organic carob bean gum, organic vanilla powder (organic vanilla extract, organic maltodextrin, organic gum Arabic).<br \/>Price: $9.29 for 12 ounces<br \/>Special notes: Equal Exchange is a worker-owned Fair Trade organization; this mix is certified organic and fair-trade certified. Container is made from recycled cardboard.<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>Q: &#8220;What&#8217;s that terrible smell?&#8221;<br \/>A: &#8220;I dunno, something weird.&#8221;<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>All in all, this product was slightly more chocolatey than the others, but also &#8220;cardboardy.&#8221; Most disaffected comment. &#8220;It has an underlying whatever.&#8221;<br \/>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br \/><a href=\"http:\/\/www.piercebroscoffee.com\/index.php?cPath=13&amp;osCsid=69af6a24fab621d734616223e9fe201f\"><\/a><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.piercebroscoffee.com\/index.php?cPath=13&amp;osCsid=69af6a24fab621d734616223e9fe201f\">Pierce Brothers Hot Cocoa<\/a><\/strong><br \/>Price: $7.99 for 8 ounces<br \/>Ingredients: Organic evaporated cane juice, organic nonfat dry milk, fair trade certified organic cocoa, salt, natural flavor, guar gum.<br \/>Special notes: Fair trade and certified organic. Directions warn that &#8220;due to all natural organic ingredients, some setting (sic) may occur.&#8221;<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>The entire panel winced at the smell of this cocoa, which one taster said was &#8220;like ammonia.&#8221; The adjective &#8220;burned&#8221; was used most often to describe its flavor, as in &#8220;burned milk&#8221; and &#8220;burned rubber.&#8221; This un-chocolately mix actually made the tasters angry. &#8220;Who decided that this was okay?&#8221; demanded festive holiday sweater lady.&nbsp; &#8220;I can&#8217;t understand how anyone would bring this to market,&#8221; scowled another taster. (Hey you kids, get off of my lawn!)<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ahlaska.com\/productlist.aspx?catid=Hot+Cocoa\"><strong>Ah!Laska Certified Organic Cocoa Chocolatey Chocolate Mix<\/strong><\/a><br \/>Ingredients: Organic cane sugar, organic non-fat milk, organic cocoa powder (non-alkaline), organic rice syrup solids, xanthan gum (a natural thickener), carrageenan (a natural seaweed extract emulsifier), maltodextrin, organic vanilla powder.<br \/>Price: $7.99 for 12 ounces<br \/>Special notes: Certified organic. Cartoon mascot: AH! Bear.<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>Tasting results. &#8220;It&#8217;s got that smell again,&#8221; someone wailed.&nbsp; Overall, the panel thought this mix was watery and without chocolate flavor.&nbsp; One found it &#8220;vaguely soap-like.&#8221; The grub-eater, who evidently was taking a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.urbandictionary.com\/define.php?term=HATECATION\">hatecation<\/a>,&nbsp; said it was &#8220;not offensive.&#8221;<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/><a href=\"http:\/\/www.patric-chocolate.com\/store\/product_info.php?cPath=29&amp;products_id=66\"><\/a><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.patric-chocolate.com\/store\/product_info.php?cPath=29&amp;products_id=66\">Patric Fine Hot Chocolate Disks<\/a><\/strong><br \/>Ingredients: cocoa beans, cocoa powder<br \/>Price: $13.95, for 3. 5 ounces (!)<br \/>Special notes: This product is hot chocolate, not hot cocoa. We&#8217;re talking solid form here, not powder. As you might have guessed from the price, this is super-duper premium micro-batch, bean-to-bar artisinal stuff. And although it doesn&#8217;t tout its organic ingredients, its cacao from Madagascar is certified organic. (Even though organic chocolate is no tastier than conventional, <a href=\"http:\/\/patric-chocolate.blogspot.com\/2009\/01\/chocolate-myth-busters-4-organic.html\">according to Patric&#8217;s founder<\/a>). Note also that there is no sugar in this stuff&#8212;you are trusted to add your own &#8220;to taste.&#8221; Further, the directions call for you to use an actual whisk and to serve this beverage in &#8220;small tea cups.&#8221; I&#8217;m not sure what happens if you add mini marshmallows&#8212;I think someone rings your doorbell and slaps your face with leather gloves. In other words, this is not a hot beverage for the kiddies to swill.<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>&#8220;No comparison!&#8221; hooted one taster. Another said, &#8220;This is the only one I&#8217;d drink regularly.&#8221; In general this non-mix, which was added to milk, yielded very rich, very creamy results. Once the giddy gratitude died down a bit, the descriptions started to sound like wine-speak: &#8220;It&#8217;s got legs!&#8221; and &#8220;lots of complexity.&#8221; Then someone mentioned the price tag. The group got quiet and a glum as we collectively realized that we had just fallen in love above our social rank. Not even the Christmas Westie could cheer us.<br \/>&nbsp;<br \/>Photo: Jason Houston<strong>The bottom line:<\/strong> I know it&#8217;s blustery out there and you&#8217;re busy (okay, really freakin&#8217; busy), but if you buy hot chocolate from a mix, we can&#8217;t be friends. It&#8217;s that simple. Can you get something quick and delicious and principled? You can. It&#8217;s the Patric chocolate discs, but they&#8217;re priced like contraband and you&#8217;ll have&nbsp; to have sell plasma to support your habit. Therefore, I&#8217;m going to give you an option to avoid other mixes that have <a href=\"http:\/\/s0.ilike.com\/play#Lynyrd+Skynyrd:That+Smell:47507:s170867.14941.4912102.1.1.6%2Cstd_3708f20ec8f1db0a31a397103b9c0912\">that smell<\/a>:&nbsp; Get some cocoa powder (fair trade and organic if you&#8217;re flush) and sugar from the pantry and mix them in equal parts (say, one heaper of each per mug) in a glass measuring cup. Add a dash of vanilla. Next, add a little water and whisk it all into a syrupy liquid. Then whisk this into a pan of simmering whole milk. (For love of any god you choose, don&#8217;t use skim. Please. It&#8217;s the holidays.) Pour the result into your favorite mug (yes, it must be your favorite mug&#8212;anything less will screw this up royally). Next, bring on the whipped cream. Then, once you&#8217;re infused with warm-fellow feeling, and if you have two cents leftover, send a donation to the <a href=\"http:\/\/feeds.grist.org\/give\">world-saving organization of your choice<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Related Links:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.grist.org\/article\/2009-12-02-peta-on-one-side-fox-on-the-other-boobs\/\">PETA on one side, FOX on the other &#8230; now that&#8217;s a conundrum<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.grist.org\/article\/chocolate\/\">Umbra on chocolate<\/a><\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t<br clear=\"both\" style=\"clear: both;\"\/><br \/>\n<br clear=\"both\" style=\"clear: both;\"\/><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/ads.pheedo.com\/click.phdo?s=e550f7f4dbfa8b541945a2b21b07262d&#038;p=1\"><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" style=\"border: 0;\" border=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/ads.pheedo.com\/img.phdo?s=e550f7f4dbfa8b541945a2b21b07262d&#038;p=1\"\/><\/a><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" height=\"0\" width=\"0\" border=\"0\" style=\"display:none\" src=\"http:\/\/a.rfihub.com\/eus.gif?eui=2223\"\/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>by Lou Bendrick Can eco-cocoas melt away holiday stress?Photo: Jason HoustonLet&#8217;s just say for the sake of argument, that you&#8217;re a little busy this time of year. (This is the part where you snort, as if to say, &#8220;You have no idea, sister.&#8221;) Also, let&#8217;s say that it&#8217;s cold outside where you live. (Is the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":765,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-104856","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104856","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/765"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=104856"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104856\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=104856"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=104856"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mereja.media\/index\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=104856"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}