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I’ve been making it at home ever since, trying to recreate that Sandwhich magic. Since the cold settled in last month, I’ve ramped up my efforts. Split peas make a fantastic midweek dinner. Unlike other dried legumes, they cook quickly—in an hour or so. This flavorful version, served over brown rice or crusty toasted bread, is deeply satisfying.<\/p>\n
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In this column, I won’t be giving recipes per se; but describing how I cook a simple dish, with plenty of variations.<\/p>\n
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Split peas for four (easily doubled)<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Mise en place: get it together. Photo: Tom PhilpottMise en place (A French cooking term that essentially means, “getting your shit together”): <\/p>\n Process: <\/p>\n As the beans cook, check them every few minutes. If they seem on the verge of drying out, add some hot water or stock. While they’re cooking, chop about half a bunch of parsley or a several arugula leaves for garnish. The beans should be done in about an hour, maybe a little less. They are ready when they are very soft. Their collapse should be complete, catastrophic, abject: like a Democratic Senator confronting a question of principle.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n When they are done, add a vigorous twist or three of black pepper, and taste. They will taste quite flat. Stir in a teaspoon of salt, and marvel at the flavors that emerge. Now add a small amount of acid—a teaspoon or so lemon juice or vinegar. You don’t want it to taste lemony or vinegary; you just want the acid to balance the flavors. Taste again and adjust for salt, pepper, and acid. More smoked paprika could be added at this stage, if desired.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n To serve, ladle into warm bowls over brown rice or toasted crusty bread. Drizzle with the best olive oil you have—this dish will showcase its flavor—add a dash of crushed chile flakes, and a good sprinkle of chopped greens.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n This dish goes with malty, lightly hopped brown ales like Bell’s Best Brown; and with rustic, simple red wines. I’ve been enjoying the 2008 Vin de Pays du Vaucluse<\/a> ($10), bottled for the great wine merchant Kermit Lynch.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Related Links:<\/strong><\/p>\n Winter cold no match for spicy kimchi stew<\/a><\/p>\n Can delicious crepes create a buckwheat revival?<\/a><\/p>\n Turn your turkey carcass into a spectacular gumbo<\/a><\/p>\n
1) 1.5 cup split peas, rinsed and picked through for rocks
2) 1 large onion, 1 large carrot, 1 large celery stalk, chopped. (This flavor-building mixture is called a mirepoix in French; it is a great thing).
3) 2-4 cloves garlic, minced. (I use four.)
4) 4.5 cups water or homemade stock.
5) Some decent extra-virgin olive oil; and the best olive oil in the house (don’t worry if you don’t have a special bottle).
6) Something spicy\/smoky: 2 teaspoons of Spanish smoked paprika (pimenton de la Vera, available where good spices are sold); or 1-2 minced chipotle peppers, dried and re-hydrated in hot water or canned. Alternately, a few slices of good quality bacon (i.e., from pastured hogs) could be chopped and added to the mirepoix (number 2 above).
7) Something acidic, like a wedge of lemon or some wine vinegar.
8) Good sea salt and a pepper grinder.
9) Something green, like flat-leaf parsley or even arugula. To be chopped while peas are cooking.
10) A little crushed red chile pepper, optional but really nice.<\/p>\n
Cover bottom of a medium heavy-bottom pot with your everyday olive oil. Turn heat to a gentle medium. After a minute, add the miroepoix vegetables (hold off on the garlic; it burns easily). Cook, stirring often, for ten or so minutes, until veggies are soft but not browned. If they threaten to turn brown, turn heat down a little. Add the garlic and the paprika or chipotles. Cook, stirring, until garlic perfumes the air, a minute or so. Note the beautiful red hue everything has turned. Add the peas, stir to mix with the veggies. Add the water or stock; bring to boil; cover; turn heat to low; let simmer.<\/p>\n
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