Author: Dr. Lydia Gray

I have a 9 year-old Australian Cattle Dog with diabetes. The food he is currently getting has a main ingredient of corn. I would like to try something with less filler and more nutrients. Is there a rule of thumb when trying to select a dog food for the diabetic? Thank you. RS, California

Dear RS,

Diabetes mellitus or “sugar diabetes” is defined by the Merck Veterinary Manual as a chronic disorder of carbohydrate metabolism due to relative or absolute insulin deficiency. What this means is that your dog’s pancreas doesn’t make insulin (or the insulin he does make isn’t used properly) so the concentration of sugar, or glucose, in his blood gets too high and leads to problems. What we see on the outside is excessive thirst, frequent urination and lethargy. Managing diabetes in a pet can be challenging, so carefully follow the program your veterinarian recommended of diet, exercise, insulin administration, home monitoring and regular checkups.

When it comes to diet, most experts recommend foods low in simple carbohydrates (simple sugars) and fats, and moderate in protein and complex carbohydrates (fiber). “Moderate” protein is 15-25% of the diet on a dry matter (DM) basis. When it comes to complex carbs, you’re aiming for 50-55% of the diet (specifically fiber should be 8 – 17% of the diet and made up of a mixture of soluble and insoluble fibers)

Soluble fibers include fruit pectin, citrus pulp, guar gum, soy fiber
Insoluble fibers include beet pulp, cellulose, corn bran, pea fiber, peanut hulls, rice bran, soy hulls, sunflower hulls, wheat bran, wheat middlings

The idea behind complex carbohydrates (fiber) is to stabilize blood sugar by slowing its absorption from the GI tract. This keeps your dog feeling full plus avoids peaks and swings in blood sugar. You didn’t mention if your dog is the kind of diabetic that needs to lose weight or gain weight, but a high fiber diet measured and fed at the same time(s), such as in PortionPaks, will go a long way to bringing him to his ideal weight regardless of where he is now.

Check with your veterinarian to see if it’s okay to provide between-meal snacks and if so, make sure these are low in simple sugars too, whether they’re people food or dog food. And don’t forget that your dog’s exercise routine should be as regular and consistent as his food and insulin shots, to avoid fluctuations in blood sugar.

I hope this information helps you select a good-quality food that your dog likes and that aids in regulating his diabetes. Good luck!

Can horses eat bananas??? AM, Pennsylvania

Dear AM,

Sometimes the simplest questions are the best! Yes, horses can eat bananas, and in some countries they’re the preferred treat for horses. In the US we’ve trained our horses to like apples, carrots and peppermints better (my retired thoroughbred will do ANYTHING for a peppermint!) However, bananas are safe for horses to eat, as long as they don’t make up too much of their diet. Forage first!

There was an interesting study performed in the UK not too long ago that ranked flavors horses prefer. All of the eight horses in the study universally accepted these twelve tastes:

1.Fenugreek
2.Banana
3.Cherry
4.Rosemary
5.Cumin
6.Carrot
7.Peppermint
8.Oregano
Apple
Garlic
Ginger
Turmeric

The ones with numbers indicate their rank in a second study that directly compared them to each other. Finally, in a third study she compared the top two flavors and found that most horses chose fenugreek over banana.

We use this research at SmartPak in our product development, incorporating fenugreek as a flavor in many of our SmartSupplements. Not only do horses love the taste, but people love the vanilla-like smell. I recommend you experiment with the flavors listed above, and find the ones your horse likes best. Who knows, this knowledge may come in handy when you have to give him medicine, encourage him to drink water, or just want to reward him for a job well done!

Could you please tell if it’s okay to give my dog, a 9 yr. old Brittany spaniel, 2% milk. He loves it and does not seem to have any side effects from it, ie; diarrhea, vomiting, etc. I give him about 3 cups a day besides his wet dog food and people food which he likes better than any dog food. Thank you for any advice. SW, Michigan

Dear SW,

While it sounds like it’s fine in your case to give your dog milk, in my opinion three cups a day is a bit much. Most dogs (and cats) lose the ability to digest dairy products after weaning so offering milk, cheese, even yogurt can result in problems like you mention: diarrhea, vomiting (or flatulence). Yours still seems to have the enzymes needed to break down the lactose sugar in milk so that these problems aren’t occurring.

However, three cups seems a bit excessive. The rule of thumb for the amount of water a dog drinks per day is 1 ounce per pound body weight. You have a Brittany Spaniel that the AKC says should weigh between 30 and 40 pounds so he should be drinking about 30 to 40 ounces (four to five cups) of water daily. So three cups of milk is more than half of his total fluid intake. I would like to see him drink more plain water than milk.

I also looked up the nutrient profile of 2% milk. Each cup has 137 calories so three cups has 411 calories. A 30 to 40 pound dog only needs about 600 to 800 calories from its food each day, so you’re also supplying over half your dog’s daily caloric requirements with the milk. The bottom line is I don’t think your dog is getting a complete and balanced diet (especially when you say he likes people food better than any dog food).

Since he has perhaps become a picky eater but you enjoy providing “people food” for him, you sound like excellent candidates for home cooking. However, that’s expensive, time-consuming and recipes are often hard for owners to stick with. I have a better suggestion for you! First, cut back on the milk. Treats and table scraps should not make up more than about 25% of the diet or they will unbalance it and add too many calories, so give him no more than one cup of milk per day as a special snack. Then, provide him with human grade food that you’ll feel good feeding and he’ll feel good eating: Proportions.

A new concept in feeding dogs, it includes hand-carved chicken breast in pumpkin stew in one pouch with dehydrated fruits and vegetables in another pouch. Most owners mix it with PortionPaks of high quality dry food but either way, it’s complete and balanced, wholesome nutrition for your dog.

What is the difference between pellets & paste wormer. Is one better than the other. I have problems giving my horses the paste. And was looking into giving them the pellet form with their food. CJ, Florida

Dear CJ,

While I believe some companies still make pelleted “purge” dewormers, I think you’re asking about the difference between daily dewormers (which come in pellets) and paste dewormers. The good news is that, depending on your horse’s situation, you may actually be able to do a better job of protecting him from parasites with a daily dewormer. The bad news is that you’ll still have to paste him twice a year to control those species of parasites that the daily dewormer doesn’t.

To be clear, daily dewormer comes in a pellet form and is designed to be fed every day to prevent internal parasites from taking hold in your horse. Paste dewormer comes in a tube and is given once every 30 to 90 days, depending on the active ingredient. Paste dewormers are designed to “purge” a horse of parasites and using them is known as rotational deworming.

A dewormer that is fed every day kills parasites before they have a chance to damage vital organs. By preventing worms from migrating through the gut wall, blood vessels, liver and other tissues, problems like weight loss, diarrhea, colic and other serious health conditions may be avoided.

However, before starting a horse on a daily dewormer, he should be “purged” of any larval and adult stages of worms he may already have using a paste dewormer that contains ivermectin or moxidectin. In addition, horses should be given ivermectin or moxidectin once or twice each year to control bots, as well as praziquantal or other effective ingredient once or twice a year to control tapeworms.

So while switching to a daily dewormer doesn’t completely absolve you from using paste dewormers, it’ll sure cut down on the number of times per year you’ll have to fight with your horse to get a tube in!

Is there a topical medication that assists in the healing cuts to reduce scarring and proud flesh? My Arab has a 21″ cut – stitches were just removed. I always use vitamin E but was hoping there was something else to combine with the E? PD, Kansa

Dear PD,

Reducing scarring and proud flesh are two different questions, so I’ll address each separately. Proud flesh is an overgrowth of the normal tissue that fills in healing wounds. Also known as exuberant granulation tissue, it occurs most commonly with injuries on the lower legs of horses and can be recognized by its characteristic red, rough appearance. You don’t say where your horse’s wound is on the body but that makes a big difference when it comes to the likelihood of proud flesh developing as well as your options for preventing it. In some cases, a well-wrapped bandage over a specific type of ointment is all you need to prevent proud flesh or even reduce mild amounts of it that have already formed. Obviously, it’s more difficult to bandage wounds on the body than on the legs. And by “specific type of ointment” I mean one that discourages new tissue growth but is still gentle on the rest of the surrounding tissue. There are some pretty scary home remedies out there for proud flesh so it’s best to talk to your veterinarian before applying any ointments. He or she can guide you to the best ones for your horse’s situation, as well as devise a cycle of tissue-promoting vs tissue-discouraging that may provide just the right balance of healing required.

Now for reducing scarring. This is a frustrating issue in horses and people alike, as some individuals just seem to scar more than others. When it comes to horses however, a skin scar usually means the hair doesn’t grow back in that area or it grows back white, two unacceptable scenarios especially for people who compete with their horse. While you should definitely voice this second concern to your veterinarian (who may be more focused on healing the wound instead of making it look nice, and rightly so), my advice is to keep the area as moist as possible once new skin has formed over the wound. I like your use of Vitamin E, and notice that human scarring formulas also contain Aloe Vera. Products containing Tea Tree Oil seem to work best in my horses. I think one of the most important things you can do to prevent scars though, is protect this new, vulnerable skin from sun damage. I gave some advice last year to a person whose white-faced chestnut horse suffered from sun burn, so I encourage you to read that post.

I would like to know if it is okay to freeze dry dog food. I would like to purchase some ahead and then have it on hand for later use. Is freezing it ok or would it destroy some of the beneficial nutrients in it? LS, Iowa

Dear LS,

What an interesting question! Depending on the quality of kibble you buy, attempting to prolong the shelf life of a dog food that may have already lost much of its nutrients in production then had them sprayed back on at the end is a questionable practice. Also consider that many brands of dry dog food sit on grocery shelves for months after they are manufactured and before they are purchased.

Freezing a fresh ingredient such as meat or vegetables in one thing. Freeze DRYING is yet another. The drawbacks of freeze-drying are that it can be expensive and hard to find but there are lots of pros such as long shelf life, easy storage (because the water has been removed), lack of spoilage, etc.

But . . . that’s freeze-DRYING and you asked me about freezing. In all honesty, I have not been able to find out much scientific data on freezing dry dog food. Common sense tells me freezing commercial kibble might not be a great idea. Most people nowadays are attempting to feed their pets (and themselves) the freshest ingredients possible for maximum benefit from food. So my advice is: while it’s fine to freeze a fresh ingredient for use a reasonable time later avoid freezing a heavily processed, finished product like dry dog food that may already be near the end of its “best by” date.

Hello, I was told by a shi-tzu breeder that it would be ok to give my shi-tzu’s liqui-care p. for worms. I know this stuff is for horses, is this ok or not? Thank you. CO, Michigan

Dear CO,

If you’re a fan of my Ask the Vet blog, then you know I’m not a fan of giving dogs products made for horses and vice versa. So the short answer to your question is: no, giving your shih tzu a horse dewormer is NOT okay.

The long answer is that horse dewormers are way more concentrated than dog dewormers. The product you specifically mentioned, Liqui-Care P, is designed to be given at a rate of 6ml per every 100lbs body weight. For a 1,000 pound horse, that’s 60mls, easily doable with a large syringe. But for a 10lb Shih Tzu, that’s only 0.6ml, a small amount to have to be sure to measure correctly. And since this particular dewormer is a suspension—meaning it has to be shaken or stirred first because it has a tendency to separate—you have to be that much more careful when it comes to measuring.

My advice is to stick with a product specifically made for dogs and puppies. Most of the canine dewormers that contain the same active ingredient—pyrantel pamoate—are designed to be given at a rate of 5ml (one full teaspoon) per every 10lbs of body weight, a convenient amount to give to a small dog.

One other thing to think about: since pyrantel pamoate controls the roundworms Toxocara and Toxascaris and as well as the hookworms Ancylostoma and Uncinaria, why not use a heartworm preventative like Heartgard Plus or Tri-Heart Plus which not only controls these parasites but also heartworm, a much more deadly threat?

I am currently supplementing “Bug Check” and “Sr Flex” to my 17 yr old TB’s grain. I was also giving Rice Bran Oil as recommended by the Equine Hospital where he spent a week (for colic- like symptoms) without getting a definitive diagnosis. Periodically he still seems uncomfortable, looks bloated, and lies down a lot. He does tend to correct himself. I read the article in the last mailing I got about Omega 3 and 6 understanding that the Omega 3 don’t fight inflammation as well as the 6, is this correct and should I be looking for an oil that is higher in Omega 6 fatty acids to add to his grain? Also, I am considering Quiessence for a calming supplement. Can this be fed along with the “Bug Check and “Sr. Flex” without a problem? AL, New Hampshire

Dear AL,

I chose your question because I wanted to address a misunderstanding about Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids. In addition, I want to touch on your oversupplementing question at the end, as I get these types of inquiries frequently. But first things first.

You’ve got the Omega 3 and Omega 6 actions backwards. Both are required for normal responses and healthy tissues but it’s the Omega 6 family of fatty acids that tends to increase the levels of inflammatory agents in the body and the Omega 3 family of fatty acids that tends to increase the levels of ANTI-inflammatory agents in the body. In responding to infection or healing a wound, some inflammation is required. But modern horse keeping has shifted the balance of these fatty acids too far towards the Omega 6 line, creating a chronic state of inflammation in the body. We recommend feeds and supplements that have a higher level of Omega 3s to restore equilibrium. So while rice bran oil is better than corn oil in regards to the balance of Omega 6 to Omega 3 fatty acids, canola oil is an even better choice. Fish oil is ideal though, not only because it contains nearly all Omega 3s but also because it has pre-formed DHA and EPA, two specific Omega 3s with proven beneficial effects in the body.

Now for your second question. You’re already supplementing your horse with “Bug Check” and “Senior Flex” and want to know if you can give “Quiessence” as a calming supplement. At first glance, I see no problem with giving supplements in the insect control, joint and calming categories. But let’s take a closer look at the active ingredients in each to make sure there’s no overlap.

Bug Check—diatomaceous earth, garlic powder, brewers yeast, soybean oil, thiamine and grape seed meal in a distillers grain base

Senior Flex—glucosamine; chondroitin sulfate; MSM; Ester C; Yucca; Vitamins A, D and E; and Lactobacillus acidophilus in a rice bran base with mineral oil

Quiessence—Magnesium and Chromium in a distillers grain base with salt and wheat mids

I don’t see any overlap of active ingredients here that would concern me. Remember, it’s not the number of supplements you give a horse but the ingredients in them that matter, especially when combined with the hay and grain he’s already getting. So a horse getting a full serving of grain and just one supplement (say a multi-vitamin/mineral supplement) may be oversupplemented while a horse getting a thoughtful selection of products to meet specific needs (like yours) is getting only what he needs with three or more supplements.

I have a boxer mix male, neutered dog who when he was younger had Pancreatitis, about 4 years ago; he is 5 now. He is fine now, but I’m cautious about what I feed him. He’s currently eating Iams Weight Control dry food, wet down with warm water. My question is, what supplement would be best for him? I want to give him something that meets his needs and helps his body the best, something well rounded – don’t want to give him a lot of stuff. Is this condition chronic, or do they recover completely from it? I use SmartPaks for my horse and LOVE them!! Thank you. DC, Ohio

Dear DC,

It’s hard to give you very specific advice without knowing why your dog developed pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas) in the past, how bad it was, if he’s had any recurrent attacks, and other information. Except for maybe being overweight, it doesn’t sound like your dog fits neatly into any of the following categories generally recognized as potential causes of pancreatitis:

• Specific breeds like Miniature Schnauzers that are prone to hyperlipemia (like high cholesterol in people)
• As a side effect of certain prescription drug treatments such as steroids
• Secondary to endocrine diseases like Cushing’s, diabetes or hypothyroidism
• Overweight, spayed females
• Dogs on high-fat diets
• Prolonged anesthesia
• Shock

So your dog probably had what we call idiopathic, or spontaneous, pancreatitis, which simply means a disease or condition having no known cause. If that was the case, then I don’t think you have to be super super careful with him. You would know if he had chronic pancreatitis or permanent damage from his acute bout when he was younger because he would probably have stool issues (form, odor, frequency, etc.), abdominal pain, poor appetite, and maybe even some vomiting and diarrhea.

My advice would be to investigate supplements that support a healthy GI system with probiotics, prebiotics and enzymes then ask your veterinarian which product is best for your dog. Other steps to reduce his risk of another episode of pancreatitis include feeding two or three smaller meals a day instead of one large one, not feeding table scraps and not feeding high-fat foods. Since one of the biggest culprits in an acute pancreatitis episode is getting into the garbage or getting rich foods around the holidays, just do what you can to avoid these scenarios and I predict you guys will be fine!

I have been using SmartB1 on my rather spooky nervous mare. It has had a calming effect on her — almost to the point of being too calm and relaxed. I have started giving her only half the recommended dosage when she is not being ridden and giving her the full dosage when I am riding her. My question is — is it safe to give my mare the 15g dose every day over an extended length of time or should it be used sparingly — only on days she will be ridden? I appreciate your help with this question. JP, Colorado

Dear JP,

The nice thing about B1 (Thiamin) or any of the B vitamins is that, being water-soluble, any excess is passed in urine and not stored in the body. The NRC Nutrient Requirements of Horses even says:

“Thiamin toxicity in horses does not seem likely and has not been reported.”

The NRC also reminds owners that while the bacteria in horses’ hindgut make most of the B vitamins horses require, additional B1 and B2 (Riboflavin) must be supplied by the diet. That is, the bacteria do not make enough of these two B vitamins to meet the horses’ daily requirements so they have to be provided in the feed.

You’re lucky that your mare responds so well to B1! Some owners have to experiment with several different products to find the one that works best in their horse. You’re already on the “what dose works best” part of the equation!

Since Thiamin is involved in carbohydrate metabolism and in the transmission of impulses along nerves it’s hard to say which of these roles is the mechanism of action for its calming effects. So I can’t tell you if giving your mare a half dose on days she is not ridden and saving the full dose for days she is ridden is a good strategy or not. If I were you, I would look back in my journal (you DO keep a journal on your horse, don’t you?) and see how long it took for the SmartB1 to work. If it had an immediate effect, then your strategy is probably a good money-saving one. But if it took two weeks or more to work, then giving her a full dose the same day you need her to be calm may not give it enough time to work.

A friend of mine recommended SmartOmega 3 – she said your customer service reps said it is okay to add to any horse’s current program. Is that actually true? And what are the benefits of this product?JN, Maine

Dear JN,

The representative you spoke to was spot on—SmartOmega 3 is ideal for every horse, every day, as the webpage for this product says. That’s because we took a look at what was missing from the average, stall-kept performance horse diet and filled in the gaps with this supplement.

First, it restores the correct balance of Omega 3 to Omega 6 fatty acids. Horses that eat grain or that don’t have access to green pasture can take in too many Omega 6s, creating a “pro-inflammatory” state in their body. SmartOmega 3 not only delivers the proper ratio of Omega 3 to 6 fatty acids, it provides guaranteed amounts of DHA and EPA, specific Omega 3 fatty acids shown to have particularly beneficial health advantages.

Next, fresh pasture quickly loses its Vitamin A and Vitamin E activity when it is cut, dried and stored for hay. In fact, some estimate as much as 80% of the Vitamin E content is lost in the baling process. Exercise, breeding and certain medical conditions can increase the requirements for these two vitamins, so it is especially important to make sure they are readily available to your horse.

Finally, we recognized that the modern system of horsekeeping places additional stress on the digestive system of the horse and included support for the GI tract. In addition to live microorganisms (probiotics or “good bugs”) like Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, SmartOmega 3 contains prebiotics, or, food for these good bugs. Mannanoligosaccharides (better known as MOS) and Fructooligosaccharides (better known as FOS) are soluble fibers that help keep the beneficial bacteria in the gut healthy and happy. Enzymes like amylase, protease and lipase round out this category by assisting with digestion and absorption.

If you have a horse that spends any time in a stall, is fed meals rather than allowed to eat continually, and has his forage needs met with hay rather than fresh grass, SmartOmega 3 is a great choice. Best of all, you can still target problem areas with products designed to support specific systems such as joints, hooves or the respiratory tract without over doing it.

I was told that un-cooked eggs are good for a dogs coat. Is that statement true? JB, California

Dear JB,

I thought this question was going to be an easy one but then I searched the internet to get a feel for the topic and wow, there are lots of different opinions out there. Here are the facts as set forth by the NRC Nutrient Requirement of Dogs and Cats (the “bible” of feeding pets):

The discovery of biotin as an essential nutrient for animals was intimately linked with the demonstration that certain food extracts were able to reverse a condition produced by the feeding of raw egg white. Egg white contains a glycoprotein avidin that very tightly binds biotin, is resistant to intestinal proteolysis, and is biologically inactive. One molecule of avidin binds four molecules of biotin, and even heat treatment releases only 0-10% of the bound biotin. Spontaneous biotin deficiencies rarely occur in dog and cats in the absence of a diet containing raw egg white.

What this tells me is that feeding raw eggs (or at least raw egg whites) is NOT a good thing for dogs. In fact, feeding raw eggs could cause the very thing you’re trying to prevent by binding an essential nutrient (biotin) that dogs need for healthy skin and coat.

So my advice is to steer away from eggs and towards products that contain ingredients proven to support resilient skin and shiny coats such as fatty acids, gelatin (a source of protein), and biotin, a vitamin necessary for protein production. Take a look at our new SmartCanine Skin & Coat, which offers a correct balance of Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids from a blend of fish oil, flax seed, olive oil and rice bran.

Of course, make sure you’re feeding your dog a high-quality, complete and balanced diet appropriate for his lifestage. Then include regular grooming and not too much bathing so you don’t strip his coat of healthy and protective oils. With attention like this to the inside and outside of your dog, he’ll be slick and shiny in no time!

I am a senior at Sweet Briar College, and am currently working on my senior thesis exercise for the Equine Certificate. My current study is “equine nutrition in the 21st century” and I think my thesis will be the different between American and European (specifically German) feeding systems, and whether one is better than the other. I was wondering if you could help me by pointing me in the right direction on where I can find more information on the subject. Thank you so much for your time, and I look forward to hearing from you. With Warm Wishes, AN, Virginia

Dear AN,

What an interesting thesis! I certainly hope it gets published somewhere because it sounds like it will contain some very practical information. I’m not very familiar with European horse feeding systems—except to know they have some different feedstuffs than us—so I’m going to stick to what’s recommended here in America.

The number one source for feeding horses in the U.S. is the sixth edition of Nutrient Requirements for Horses authored by the National Research Council (NRC) of the National Academies Press and published in 2007. Here’s what their website says about the book:

Proper formulation of diets for horses depends on adequate knowledge of their nutrient requirements. These requirements depend on the breed and age of the horse and whether it is exercising, pregnant, or lactating.

A great deal of new information has been accumulated since the publication 17 years ago of the last edition of Nutrient Requirements of Horses. This new edition features a detailed review of scientific literature, summarizing all the latest information, and provides a new set of requirements based on revised data. Also included is updated information on the composition of feeds, feed additives, and other compounds routinely fed to horses. The effects of physiological factors, such as exercise, and environmental factors, such as temperature and humidity, are covered, as well. Nutrient Requirements of Horses also contains information on several nutritional and metabolic diseases that horses often have.

Designed primarily as a reference, both practical and technical, Nutrient Requirements of Horses is intended to ensure that the diets of horses and other equids contain adequate amounts of nutrients and that the intakes of certain nutrients are not so excessive that they inhibit performance or impair health. This book is primarily intended for animal nutritionists, veterinarians, and other scientists; however, individual horse owners and managers will also find some of this material useful. Professors who teach graduate courses in animal nutrition will find Nutrient Requirements of Horses beneficial as a textbook.

You can also find the table of contents on the website, which lists these chapters:
1. Energy
2. Carbohydrates
3. Fats and Fatty Acids
4. Proteins and Amino Acids
5. Minerals
6. Vitamins
7. Water and Water Quality
8. Feeds and Feed Processing
9. Feed Additives
10. Feed Analysis
11. Feeding Behavior and General Considerations for Feeding Management
12. Unique Aspects of Equine Nutrition
13. Donkeys and Other Equids
14. Ration Formulation and Evaluation
15. Computer Model to Estimate Requirements
16. Tables
  a. Nutrient Requirement Tables
  b. Feed Composition Tables
  c. Composition of Mare’s Milk Tables
  d. Table of Conversions

Finally, it contains appendixes and an index. I hope this answers your question and good luck on your thesis!

Is it realistic to give to a small spaniel mixed breed DOG, a glucosamine/chondroitin product which has been formulated for EQUINE use? LB, New Jersey

Dear LB

Regular readers of this blog are probably tired of me covering this topic, but as long as I’m still getting questions about it, I’m still going to answer them.

You’ve probably heard the saying “cats are not little dogs.” Well, dogs are not little horses (but wouldn’t they be cute?) What I mean by that is that dogs should be given dog products, cats should be given cat products and horses should be given horse products. There are a couple of reasons why I take such a firm stand:

1. Toxicity—while dogs, cats and horses (and us) all have basically the same systems, there are a few differences in the way we metabolize certain compounds that mean a therapeutic substance in one species is a poison in another. Take Tylenol (acetaminophen) for example. Works great on people but is fatal in cats. Onions are the same way. The sweetener in gum (xylitol) can be life-threatening in dogs. So can grapes.

2. Dosing– a powder concentrated for a 1000lb horse might only require a scoop (two or three tablespoons) to have a benefit. Unless you have a pharmaceutical grade scale that measures in grams, it would be almost impossible to dose your dog correctly (especially a small breed like yours).

3. Formulation—a powder flavored with something attractive to horses like apple or cherry, or a pellet made from alfalfa or beet pulp on dog food may not get eaten. It makes more sense to stick with a treat or chew tab that has a yummy beef or liver flavor that most dogs love.

My advice is to choose a glucosamine/chondroitin product from among the many made specifically for our canine friends. SmartPak has just launched its own line of supplements for dogs, including SmartCanine Joint and SmartCanine Joint Ultra. But we also carry quality products from Nutramax, such as their popular Cosequin line, as well as the Glycoflex line by Vetri-Science, Grand Meadows products for dogs and many others. I’m sure you can find something your dog will love among these!

We will be moving our horses (9 yr G Paint & 6 yr G Quarter Horse) to our property in a little over a month. We will have a new pasture for them to stay in with a horsewire fence. Our pasture is mostly sandy type dirt and we have been told that sandy area can cause a sand colic in horses. Is there a supplement we can buy and if so, which one is best? We have been told a “Sand Blaster” type supplement should be used. Thank you. EG, Texas

What is the best and most cost effective way to sand your horses? I have heard that metamucil is good but, I would rather avoid using it. I use Fiberpsyll and that is the cheapest physillium product I have found so far. KM, Florida

I noticed a disclaimer on psyllium used for gut sand reduction stating that no scientific research has been done on its use. Why not? DG, California

Dear Sand Colic Question Writers,

DG, I’m not sure what disclaimer you’re looking at. I’ve looked at all the labels of all the psyllium products for horses I could find (whether we sold them or not) and couldn’t find one. Do you mean this statement?

Safe use in pregnant animals or animals intended for breeding has not been proven.

If so, that’s a caution that the NASC requires all of its members to put on all their supplements, unless research on every single ingredient in the product has been done in pregnant mares and breeding stallions, which is unlikely.

While there is research on the use of psyllium in horses, to be honest with you, the NASC advises its members to be careful about conducting research and sharing it. That’s because the FDA doesn’t want supplement companies using a single research project to make drug-type claims about over-the-counter products that haven’t undergone the lengthy, expensive and rigorous safety and efficacy testing they require before granting FDA approval (prescription products, dewormers, etc.) So even if a supplement company pays to have research conducted on its product and “proves” it treats a disease, the company still can’t make a drug claim or really even use the research in its marketing. That’s one of the reasons you don’t see a lot of research on supplements.

As I said though, some research has been performed on the use of psyllium for reducing sand (and therefore sand colic and sand diarrhea) in horses. These papers all show a clear benefit:

Evacuation of sand from the equine intestine with mineral oil, with and without psyllium. (2008)

Fecal sand clearance is enhanced with a product combining probiotics, prebiotics and psyllium in clinically normal horses. (2007)

Abdominal radiography in monitoring the resolution of sand accumulations from the large colon of horses treated medically. (2001)

Diarrhea associated with sand in the gastrointestinal tract of horses. (1988)

One study, performed by my alma mater the University of Illinois, did not show this benefit but researchers now suspect the study may not have been set up appropriately:

Failure of psyllium mucilloid to hasten evaluation of sand from the equine large intestine. (1998)

I encourage all of you to read my article on sand colic, as feeding psyllium is only a part of keeping your horse sand-free. Other advice includes not feeding them on the ground, only allowing grazing in pastures with solid plant growth, and feeding before turnout.

I have been feeding my American Bulldog Puppy LiveSmart Chicken and Brown Rice Puppy Formula. I would like to switch her to an Adult Food now, which one do you recommend for large/heavy breeds? Thank you! KM, North Carolina

Dear KM,

You don’t say how old your puppy is, but if you’re beginning to think about switching her over to adult food she’s probably close to 12 months old. That means she’s already done most of her growing and less at risk for developmental orthopedic diseases (DOD) like hip dysplasia. So I think you’re fine to gradually transition her to LiveSmart Chicken and Brown Rice Adult over the usual two-week period or so.

Before today, I wouldn’t even have mentioned DOD in a breed like a bulldog because I don’t think of them as a large or giant breed dog prone to growth disorders. The classic definition of a large-breed dog is one whose mature body weight exceeds 50lbs. American Bulldogs are right on the cusp of that so they should be okay, right?

Unfortunately, I did some digging and found some shocking statistics at www.offa.org, the website of the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, a not-for-profit dedicated to reducing genetic disease in dogs and cats. According to the OFA, who has maintained a database of test results for 40 years, the American Bulldog ranks #9 for elbow dysplasia and #16 for hip dysplasia (additional genetic diseases of the bulldog involve the spine and trachea). While the roles that genetics, nutrition, exercise and other factors play in developmental orthopedic disease are still unclear, a conservative diet is probably the smart way to go in your dog.

A conservative diet is one that doesn’t overdo the energy, calcium and Vitamin D. It’s also one that is not fed free-choice or time-limited. To quote from the “Nutritional Risk to Large-Breed Dogs” chapter in the November 2006 issue of Veterinary Clinics of North America—Small Animal Practice:

“Quantities of food offered should be consistently measured, divided, and offered at multiple feeding times.”

You may already be purchasing your food in PortionPaks, our unique feeding system. If not, I recommend you make the switch from bags to PortionPaks to protect her from overeating, which can lead to growth disorders, obesity, bloat and other health problems.

I have a 3 yr old mare that has developed a swollen hock on the right back leg. She is not lame, there is no heat, and there is swelling in the hock. The swelling is soft and feels like there is fluid. It seems to me that if it were bone or tendon issues then there would also be lameness. I have been hosing the leg down with cold water and I have also put liniments and DMSO on the leg for several days now. The swelling has gone down a little but not a lot. I have pictures to show and I was not sure if she may have Thoroughpin. What do you recommend as being the best treatment for Thoroughpin? What are your thoughts on injections or removal of the fluid? As I am not sure exactly what is wrong. I am trying to research and learn about possibilities of what might be wrong. Thank you for your time. JM, Tennessee

Dear JM,

First, I recommend you check out the page that I wrote specifically about Thoroughpin. It defines this condition as a cosmetic blemish of the hock area that consists of swelling but no heat or pain, as you describe. However, just to be sure there’s nothing more serious going on, I recommend having a veterinarian examine your mare. Because the risk factors for Thoroughpin may also be risk factors for more serious conditions such as arthritis, tendinitis and other lamenesses, it will be helpful to have a vet’s opinion on the matter.

When it comes to treatments for Thoroughpin, less may be more. That is, because the swelling is a cosmetic blemish and not an actual cause of lameness or discomfort, you may be better off sticking with the conservative approach you’ve already taken vs more aggressive approaches such as injections or fluid drainage. These all run the risk of infection or at the very least inflammation and down-time so I say “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” One of my horses has a thoroughpin on one hind leg (probably from kicking the stall) and I notice two things improve the swelling: cold weather and MSM.

My 60 pound 6-year old Australian shepherd mix has trouble with his toe nails -they split and crack so badly that it involves a trip to the vet. My vet suggested gelatin and I’ve been making doggie jello shots with clear gelatin and beef broth with helps but also gives him the runs. Today the vet also suggested looking into the horse hoof supplements. I called my sister, a horse trainer, who suggested your web site and a brand of hoof supplement called Farriers Friend. Would this be safe for dogs and what dose should I use? The vet said about one tenth of a horse dose. I would appreciate any help or suggestions you might have. MS, New York

Dear MS,

Hardly ever will you see me recommend a horse product for a dog or the other way around. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, dosing can be extremely difficult. Not only can it be hard to figure out how much of a product for a 1000lb horse to give to a 60lb dog, sometimes the formulation for one species isn’t so easy to get another species to eat. Second, it’s hard for me personally to keep track of the ingredients it’s safe for one species to have but dangerous for another species to have so I avoid the risk by sticking to species-specific products.

Now that I’ve gotten that out of the way, let me make some recommendations that should be safe for your dog and easy for you. You’re on the right track with gelatin, or, hydrolyzed (boiled) collagen. Collagen is simply a term for a certain group of proteins in the body. This group of proteins is the most abundant group in the body, and the most abundant group in connective tissue (such as toenails). It makes sense to supply the building blocks of toenails if you want them to grow healthier.

The next ingredient I would make sure to have on board is biotin. In the B-vitamin family, it’s a co-enzyme in hundreds of metabolic reactions, one of which is protein building. Horse owners have long recognized its value in growing strong, resilient hooves and there’s evidence to support its use in promoting healthy skin and coat in dogs as well.

Finally, make sure your dog is getting plenty of the anti-inflammatory omega 3 fatty acids. Sometimes commercial diets are loaded towards the pro-inflammatory omega 6 fatty acid side and problems can develop on the inside as well as the outside.

Provide your dog will all three of these key ingredients—gelatin, biotin and omega 3 fatty acids—with our new SmartCanine Skin & Coat. Then just make sure your feeding a high-quality dog food and supplementing with fresh fruits, vegetables and other healthy snacks, and your dog should be in great shape in no time!

Can I overdo bran mashes? I’ve been giving more with the long spell of subfreezing weather. SH, Tennessee

Dear SH,

Unfortunately yes. As much as we love to prepare a warm, tasty bran mash with our horse’s favorite ingredients, this traditional treat may be doing more harm than good. Turns out bran mashes upset the nutritional balance of the diet and may not even prevent or treat the problems we’re giving it for in the first place.

The biggest problem with bran mashes is the imbalance in the calcium to phosphorus ratio. Horses should get somewhere between 1 part calcium to 1 part phosphorus (1:1) or 2 parts calcium to 1 part phosphorus (2:1). Bran has a ratio of 1:12, which means it has a lot more phosphorus than calcium. Creating an upside-down balance between these two important minerals can lead to a condition called “Big Head Disease,” where the horse pulls calcium out of its bones in order to rebalance the ratio.

Another problem with a weekly bran mash or an occasional bran mash before or after a trip is that it is a sudden change in the horse’s diet, something we’re taught never to do. The beneficial bacteria that live in the horse’s GI system need time to adapt to any new feeds. Bran is made up of complex carbohydrates that require bacteria to ferment them so it especially needs this “break in” period. Some of these complex carbohydrates are completely indigestible in the horse, so bran does tend to “bulk up” manure. However, research has shown that even when as much as 50% of the diet consists of bran there is still no laxative effect. Any stool softening or additional water you see in the feces after feeding bran is more likely diarrhea from a sudden change in the diet.

So if you’re feeding a bran mash to heat your horse up from the inside on cold winter days, try feeding more hay. If you’re feeding a bran mash to get more water into your horse, try adding electrolytes to the diet (and using heated buckets—studies prove horses drink more water when it is warmed). If you’re feeding a bran mash to bond with your horse, there are lots of other things you can do to remind him you’re his friend such as extra grooming, carrot stretches or clicker training.

I have just purchased a QH mare who is due to foal the first part of March. As this is our first foal, what if any supplements would you recommend for the mare at this point in her pregnancy. I am an OB-Gyn Nurse Practitioner and know how important adequate quality intake is for both. Thanks, DH, Texas

Dear DH,

Since the average length of pregnancy in the mare is 338 – 343 days or about 11 months, your mare is heading into her last trimester. Up to now, she has done just fine on the same nutritional program you would use for any horse: a complete and balanced diet fed at a rate of 1 – 2% of her body weight daily based on high-quality forage. Of course, fresh water and loose salt is always available. But during the last four months of gestation the foal grows rapidly, requiring the mare’s diet to change in three key areas: energy, protein and vitamins/minerals.

A pregnant mare’s energy requirements gradually increase after the seventh month of gestation, so you should gradually begin to supply her with more calories. Of course, if she’s already overweight, then this step may not be necessary. Aim to keep her in good flesh but not too heavy (between a 5 and a 6 on the Henneke Body Condition Scoring scale, where 1 = emaciated and 9 = obese). It may be tempting to just add an extra scoop of grain to her ration, but fat or beet pulp are safer sources of calories.

Adult horses in maintenance as well as mares in early gestation only need an 8% crude protein diet. But during the last trimester when the foal is building lots of tissue, that level will need to be upped to 10 – 12%. Instead of simply increasing the amount of grain in the diet, which can lead to problems, begin swapping out flakes of grass hay for flakes of alfalfa hay, which are higher in protein.

Feeding alfalfa hay also provides the additional calcium that mares need in late gestation. Other minerals of interest include selenium–especially if you are in a selenium-deficient area of the country–and copper, which may have a protective effect against developmental orthopedic diseases such as osteochondritis dissecans or OCD. Also, make sure your mare gets plenty of Vitamins A and E particularly if she does not have access to fresh grass. A multi-vitamin/mineral supplement  made especially for mares may be a good choice now.

One final bit of advice: during the last trimester the foal takes up quite of bit of room in the mare’s abdomen. Just when she should be eating more there’s no room for food! Try to feed smaller meals more frequently so she takes in the nutrition she needs without becoming uncomfortable. Now just work with your veterinarian to make sure your mare’s other health needs are met (deworming, vaccination, hoof and dental care) then provide careful monitoring until the Big Day!