Author: Dr. Lydia Gray

I’ve been hearing more and more about the value of adding fruits and vegetables to my dog’s diet. I know that certain ingredients can be harmful, but I’m not sure what to stay away from, and what’s beneficial. Can you tell me what fruits and veggies are appropriate to add to my dog’s diet, and at what amount? ML, Connecticut

Dear ML,

You’re right on both counts: that fruits and vegetables have health benefits to pets but that not every fruit and vegetable is safe to feed your pet. For example, garlic, onions and grapes have all been shown to be toxic to dogs. On the other hand, vegetables such as carrots, peas and pumpkin are wonderful additions to dry dog food diet as are fruits like apples, blueberries and bananas. Not only are they packed with vitamins and minerals, they also contain fiber, antioxidants and other beneficial agents.

If you wish to introduce fruits and vegetables to your dog, do so gradually and in moderation. Add just one to two new items each week and avoid unbalancing the diet by limiting fruits and veggies to 10 – 20 % of the total diet. Another suggestion is to lightly cook the vegetables, which helps release certain nutrients. Finally, visit www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/ to make sure everything you’re offering to your dog is safe.

SmartPak is a firm believer in the health benefits of fruits and vegetables to dogs, and has included a wide variety of both in its supplements as well as its food. SmartCanine Vite is a nutritional supplement that contains a tasty blend of fruits and vegetables along with vitamins, minerals, amino acids, essential fatty acids and digestive support. It’s designed to complement heavily processed commercial kibble.

Either way you choose to add fruits and vegetables to your dog’s diet—by home cooking them yourself or through the product mentioned above—you’ll be providing him with a healthier diet that also tastes great!

I just bred my dog and am wondering if while she is pregnant I should feed her anything special or get her vitamins. I want her to have a healthy pregnancy and healthy puppies. Is there anything you might wanna suggest for her? Thanks JC, Michigan

Dear JC,

The average length of pregnancy in dogs is 63 days or about 9 weeks. During the first six weeks of pregnancy, experts recommend continuing to feed her usual high-quality maintenance diet. By high-quality, I mean a meat-based commercial kibble for adult dogs or a home cooked diet that is complete and balanced. While a multi-vitamin/mineral supplement may not be necessary if she’s fed a premium diet, a small amount of fresh fruits and lightly cooked vegetables can be a healthy addition to any dogs’ diet. Omega 3 fatty acids from fish oil  provide additional health benefits.

The pups grow the most during the last trimester, or three weeks, of pregnancy, so that’s when your dog will need extra calories, protein and minerals, like calcium. Gradually increase her daily food intake so that by her due date, she’s eating three times the amount she was before pregnancy. By increasing the amount of food she eats each day, she’ll not only be getting additional calories, she’ll also be taking in the additional protein, calcium and other nutrients the pups need to develop properly.

If you find that your dog simply can’t eat this much food, she’s losing weight, or you’re concerned that she won’t be able to keep up with the pups’ demand for milk, gradually switch her over to a food specially made for the pregnancy/lactation lifestage. Generally the same as puppy formula, this food concentrates calories, protein and calcium so your dog doesn’t have to eat as much to get the same nutrition.

My horse has a dull coat and could stand to gain some weight, so my trainer suggested adding corn oil to his grain, for extra fat. But I’ve read recently that corn oil actually isn’t that good for horses – is that true?  I’m confused! Thanks for your help, JR, Maine 

Dear JR,

Adding fat to your horse’s diet is a great way to add calories for weight gain and essential fatty acids to improve the coat.  But you’re correct that using corn oil isn’t the right way to go about it.  In fact, you might be doing more harm than good!

That’s because all fats are not created equal.  Corn oil contains almost all Omega 6 fatty acids—generally pro-inflammatory—and very little of the anti-inflammatory Omega 3 fatty acids that have so many health benefits.  While our bodies need both types, keeping the proper balance between the two is important.  For horses, experts feel that a ratio somewhere in the range of one part Omega 6 to two parts Omega 3 (a 1:2 ratio) or even a 1:4 ratio is ideal.  However, our methods of modern horse keeping have shifted the balance by restricting access to Omega 3-rich fresh grass while providing feed high in Omega 6 fatty acids such as grain-based concentrates. 

To help you better understand where these two types of essential fatty acids come from and how the balance easily becomes skewed towards the pro-inflammatory Omega 6 side, here’s a chart of the Omega 6 to Omega 3 ratios in some common horse feeds:
 

In a perfect world, we’d all keep our horses turned out on green grass for its benefits to the body as well as the mind!  But since that’s not realistic for most people, just try to feed as little grain and grain oil as possible to avoid filling your horse with pro-inflammatory Omega 6 fatty acids—instead use a multi-vitamin/mineral supplement or ration balancer to fill any nutritional gaps from your forage.  Then if you want to add fat for extra calories or a shiny coat, use flax seed or fish oil and fill your horse with healthy, anti-inflammatory Omega 3 fatty acids!

Can I use the Wellness Allergy Super5Mix Complete Health Whitefish and Sweet Potato Recipe dog food for my cat? She is an indoor only cat. She has a sensitive tummy, UTI, and skin/hair loss issues. She yacks alot, mostly food and in the summer hair balls. We have her on hair medicine. My vet suggested a different type of food instead of just the indoor cat food. Like something for sensitive stomach or digestive aid food. Is dog food okay for cats?? TV, California

Dear TV,

I would like to focus on your main question: is dog food okay for cats? The answer is an unequivocal NO. There’s no controversy here, no he said-she said, no websites to research because each “expert” has a different answer—cats cannot survive on dog food, period. Unlike dogs, which are classified as omnivores (eat both meat and plants), cats are strict carnivores. That means they must eat meat to live. The very chemistry and structure of their GI tract demands it! Here’s why:

1. Protein

For starters, cats have twice the protein requirement of dogs. Eighty percent of the food eaten by cats is used for energy and so they have a very efficient pathway for converting protein to energy. In fact, they can’t shut this pathway off like dogs, humans and other species can.

Next, while there are ten essential amino acids for dogs (meaning they must be supplied in the diet), there are actually eleven for cats. The additional one is taurine, necessary for healthy eyes, ears, heart, immunity and reproduction.

2. Fat

There are two essential fatty acids in dogs: linoleic acid (an omega 3) and linolenic acid (an omega 6). However there are three in cats. Because they lack the enzyme needed to convert linolenic acid into arachidonic acid, it is also required. Arachidonic acid is a kind of fat commonly found in meat but not plants, further proof that cats are true carnivores.

3. Carbohydrates

In general, cats have a lower concentration of the enzymes that digest sugars and starches. For example, they lack amylase (which breaks down the sugar amylose) in their saliva, an important first step in carbohydrate digestion for dogs and other species.

4. Vitamins

Since cats also lack the chemical pathways to make the B-vitamin Niacin as well as Vitamin A, these two nutrients must also come directly from the diet. Dogs, on the other hand, are able to convert the Vitamin A precursor beta carotene that comes from a variety of plants into the active form of Vitamin A so it is not dietary essential for them.

I hope these examples show why it is important to feed your cat food that is specifically formulated for her unique dietary needs. I also hope that you and your vet are able to find a food that your cat thrives on.

I have a horse that is just getting over lymphangitis. He has now had 3 severe bouts of it. He is on very good feed, but I am looking for something to boost his immune system. Any suggestions? Thanks. TV, Arizona

I was wondering if you could comment at all about maintenance strategies for a horse with lymphangitis. Thank you. MS, Massachusetts

My horse has gotten Equine Lymphangitis three times. I am doing research on what would help build his immune system so he will be able to fight these infections on his own in the future and hopefully get his lymphatic system functioning properly. He is stabled/boarded in Maryland so he is out on what grass we have because of the drought during the day and eating grass/timothy hay at night. He gets 2 scoops of 10% protein pellets per day as well as 1 scoop of Equine Senior a day. Both products are manufactured by Purina. VS, Maryland

Dear TV, MS and VS,

Lymphangitis, or inflammation and blockage of the lymphatic system, can be a frustrating condition to manage, as the three of you know from personal experience. Unless you’re dealing with the more severe form of the condition, ulcerative lymphangitis (not uncommon in a dry western state such as Arizona), caused by the bacteria Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis, you may never know what caused the original limb swelling in your horses. And unfortunately, many horses that develop “big leg” or “fat leg” are predisposed to limb swelling again and again.

Because some experts believe this impairment of normal lymph drainage is due to too much of an immune response rather than too little, I’m going to suggest some supplements that support a healthy immune system and reduce inflammation naturally. No boosting or building. So here’s my list:

• Omega 3 fatty acids—research shows restoring the balance of the anti-inflammatory omega 3s vs. the pro-inflammatory omega 6s may improve certain medical conditions

• MSM—a naturally occurring compound that helps fight inflammation

• Devil’s Claw, Boswellia, Bromelain, Yucca—all potent inflammation-fighters

• Adaptogenic herbs—plants with substances that dial the body back to normal, they strengthen systems compromised by stress and protect against a wide variety of stressful influences

I’m sure you’re already providing excellent supportive nursing care, including hot and/or cold therapy, careful bandaging when appropriate, poulticing to draw out fluid, and non-steroidals such as “bute” to relieve pain and swelling. And as soon as your horses are able, light exercise to stimulate circulation. Antibiotics are controversial and should only be given on the advice of your veterinarians. The only other suggestion I can give you all is to keep your horses and their surroundings as clean and dry as possible, because some cases appear to be associated with a contaminated environment and equipment.

I am wondering what would be the perfect gift to get my cousin who is in her second to last year in Vet School. She hasn’t decided small or large animal yet, but last I heard she was leaning towards large. Seeing as you are a Vet, what would you have liked to receive as a present when you were in Vet School? Thanks JR, Massachusetts

Dear JR,

What a fun question! I spoke with my husband about this, since he’s also a veterinarian, and here’s the list we came up with together:

1. Money—I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but most vet students are coming out of school with more than $100,000 in debt and spend their entire careers working just to pay this off. Maybe a Visa gift card?

2. Food—We ate a lot of Ramen noodles in vet school, so your cousin would probably appreciate a gift card to the local grocery store. Better yet, purchase or make a gift basket full of goodies such as cheese, chocolate, crackers, chocolate, pasta, chocolate . . . you get my drift.

3. Gas—Another boring suggestion, but next year she’ll be involved in externships at other schools or private practices and will need to get around.

Okay, now for some more specific suggestions:

4. Books—veterinary textbooks are expensive, so I’m sure she would appreciate help purchasing reference materials that she can use now and once she graduates. I love my collection of Veterinary Clinics of North America published by Elsevier. They come in equine, small animal, exotic and food animal. A one-year subscription (you get three small hardback books) is $111 if she lets you use her student discount. Otherwise is $222

5. Clothing—Who says you can’t be fashionable while attending vet school? www.veterinaryapparel.com has the latest in scrubs, jackets and even footwear for the most discerning doctor-to-be.

6. Pet gifts—Finally, every vet student I know has a menagerie of dogs, cats, pocket pets (or in my case, horses). Why not ease the financial burden of caring for these creatures by giving her a gift certificate to her favorite pet store? Might I suggest SmartPak?

Have fun with these ideas and Happy Holidays!

My daughter wants to know why most dogs’ eyes are brown. TH, Michigan

Dear TH,

For help with this question I turned to my ophthalmology instructor in vet school, Ralph Hamor, DVM, MS, Diplomate ACVO, Clinical Associate Professor of the Comparative Ophthalmology Service of the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine. Here’s his reply:

Eye color in dogs is related to their coat color. As most dogs have darker coat colors, their eyes are often some shade of brown. The eye color is related to the amount of pigmentation within the eye. Blue-eyed dogs have pigment just in the deepest layers of the iris so their eyes appear blue. Dogs with brown irises have more pigment scattered throughout their iris which makes it appear more brown with more and more iridial pigmentation. Multi-colored (merle) dogs can have multi-colored eyes . . . again all related to their coat color.

For more information on multi-colored dogs and their multi-colored eyes, visit www.ashgi.org/color/aussie_eye_color.htm. Did you know Australian Shepherd eyes can be golden, lemon yellow, amber, light brown, dark brown, green, orange or blue? I also learned from their website that research shows livestock are quicker to retreat from the predatory threat of a dark color dog with light eyes that to dogs with eyes that don’t stand out from their coat as much. Interesting!

This entry marks the 100th message I have written to this blog since starting in July 2007! In honor of this milestone, SmartPak is letting me select my favorite question and answer from the past two years and give that person a gift certificate, just in time for the holidays! This was a fun but tough exercise, and here are my finalists (along with why):

• Slow Down Hay Eating (9/30/09 in Weight Management)—because my own horse gorges and I literally spent HOURS researching this topic

• How Do I Become a Veterinarian (8/12/09 in Misc. Topics)—who doesn’t love to talk about their career?

• How Much Pasture Do Horses Eat? (7/30/09 in Nutrition and Seasonal Horse Care)—I was shocked at how much research there is on grazing behavior in horses. Some of what I learned I put to immediate use at my own barn and some I just stored away to impress people with at cocktail parties.

• Headshaking (12/31/2008 in Behavior)—again, any topic that helps my own horse I’m happy to look into for someone else’s horse!

• Is Flax Seed Safe to Use in Horses? (9/10/98 in Misc. Topics)—this topic generated the most comments because I quoted a study that has since disappeared off the face of the earth (it’s with the keeper from my side reins, my white sock with the pink toe, and my Collective Soul CD). Also, I love dispelling the myth that flax seed poses a danger because of the cyanide precursor it contains.

• How Much Sun Do Horses Need? (4/21/08 in Misc. Topics)—another topic I had to research extensively to answer. I love a challenge!

• Trimming Chestnuts on Horse Legs (2/26/08 in Barn Skills)—love these kinds of basic questions that you might feel, well, stupid asking your trainer, veterinarian, farrier or even another boarder but you can submit to the Ask the Vet forum because it’s a “safe” location.

• Is Water Softener Salt OK for Horses? (12/14/07 in Seasonal Horse Care)—never thought about doing this, but it is a real head-scratcher

• Sleep Deprivation in Horses (10/10/07 in Misc. Topics)—I had just come back from a veterinary conference where this was discussed so I felt really pleased that I could offer these folks some real, scientific explanations and advice.

And the winner is (selected randomly from my top ten):

Finding a Horse’s Heart Rate (2/29/08 in Barn Skills)—I do wish I got more of these Barn Skills-type questions, as I think it’s really important for horse owners to know how to check vitals and to know what’s normal in their horse. The first month I owned my trakehner the poor thing got his temperature taken every day because he was consistently 101, which is high. Now I know he just runs high and that it’s nothing to worry about. A 101 temperature in my thoroughbred though, might indicate a low-grade fever and I would be more concerned.

LW from Illinois, be checking your email for a gift certificate soon!

My 5 lb dog has luxating patellas and is now having trouble with her front legs, as well. They seem to “lock up” on her and she doesn’t want to move. She is only 4 and I am considering the surgery, but would like to know if there is some supplemental therapy that might help. DM, Georgia

Dear DM,

Luxating patellas are not an uncommon problem for small and miniature breeds such as miniature and toy Poodles, Maltese, Jack Russell Terriers, Yorkshire Terriers, Pomeranians, Pekingese, Chihuahuas, Boston Terriers and others. It occurs when the patella, also known as the knee cap, dislocates or moves out of its normal position at the front of the stifle joint. This is usually due a defect in hindlimb conformation and is believed to have a congenital or hereditary component.

You mention that your dog “locks up,” which is another way of saying that one or both of her legs becomes fixed in an extended position. Other signs include an intermittent or on-again off again-rear lameness and an unusual skipping or hopping gait in the rear end. Sometimes the condition doesn’t appear until the dog is playing and suddenly pops the patella out of place, causing a cry or yelp and immediate pain and limping. Many times a dog that is in pain and unable to move pops the patella back into place on its own and is instantly able to run again with no discomfort.

Veterinarians diagnose luxating patellas by the owner’s history, by palpating the joint, and by X-rays. Based on how easily they are able to move the patella in and out of the correct location, veterinarians give luxating patellas a Grade I (mild, surgery not recommended) to Grade IV (severe, surgery recommended) scale. Because most cases get worse over time, and because arthritis of the stifle joint develops from the instability caused by this condition, surgery should be performed as soon as the problem is diagnosed, if your dog is a candidate.

Carefully follow your veterinarian’s aftercare instructions as the rehabilitation from the surgery is just as important as the surgery itself in determining your dog’s soundness and quality of life. Bandaging, cage rest, passive range of motion exercises, controlled leash walks, and even swimming may be recommended. Ramps or steps may be helpful both before and after surgery to limit strain on the joint and surrounding tissues. Medications to reduce pain and swelling may also be prescribed.

However, I recommend that you start your dog on a joint supplement that includes ingredients like glucosamine, chondroitin sulfate, HA and MSM; herbs like Boswellia and Bromelain; and omega 3 fatty acids even before the surgery. Hopefully this will help manage discomfort and inflammation and possibly even protect the cartilage from further damage until the joint is stabilized.

What a whirlwind weekend! It all started Thursday with an ISVMA board meeting followed by dinner at Jim’s Steakhouse in Peoria, IL. Imagine my surprise when the waitress read off our three choices for entrees: ribeye steak, orange roughy, or Chicken a la Lydia!

Then it was Friday, and time for the Equine Neurology Wet Lab at a local mixed practice clinic. A “wet lab” is a hands-on teaching experience where veterinarians work in small groups with real patients, receiving one-on-one instruction by the facilitator to improve their clinical skills. We were thrilled to be able to bring in world-renowned Dr. Stephen Reed as the instructor.

I arrived back to the convention center just in time for the Welcome Address, Keynote Speaker, a few awards, and an opening reception in the Exhibit Hall. My favorite exhibit this year was Chesire Partners, who brought a remote control bird on a tricycle and startled attendees!

Illinois puts on an incredible state veterinary convention, so in addition to sitting in on a few of Dr. Reed’s equine neurology talks (herpesvirus, EPM, Wobblers), I also went to presentations on supplements in the Complementary and Alternative Medicine track and communication in the Business Practices track. But that still left a second Business Practices track, Exotics, three Small Animal tracks, three small animal wetlabs and a Vet Tech program. There’s just no way to get to them all!

For me, though, the highlight of Saturday (and in fact, the whole convention) was the ISVMA Annual Meeting, where the current president, Dr. Shelly Rubin, gave an address and turned over leadership of the organization to the new president (me!) What made this year’s installment particularly poignant was that Oprah (yes, Oprah Winfrey) heard about her personal veterinarian’s retirement and sent a taped message about how much she appreciated Dr. Rubin over the years.

During my president’s address, I thanked my husband, who had kindly informed me beforehand that his new title is the “First Gentleman.” As only the second female president of the Illinois State Veterinary Medical Association in its 127-year history, I am actually the first married female president (and youngest, but we don’t have to discuss age).

So the next year will be a busy one for me–attending regional meetings as well as national meetings on behalf of ISVMA, presiding at board meetings, reviewing the budget of the Association, developing a strategic plan, naming volunteers to committees, and so on–but it will be a fun one. Don’t worry though, I’ll keep writing blog answers as long as you keep sending in those questions!

Dr. Gray Installed as President of ISVMA

I have two pugs one fawn female 7 yrs & black male 1yr old. The male has mouth pimples and continuous fungus and yeast infections I have him at the vets for antibiotics, lotions, meds nothing has helped to get rid of long term as soon as he is off meds allergies come back acne stays. I read it can be treated with 2% peroxide. Do you have any suggestions? Thank You BD, South Carolina

Dear BD,

Okay, let’s start with your mention of allergies. Have you had a veterinary dermatologist perform intradermal skin testing (IDST) so you know what he’s allergic to? That will be a HUGE help because if you can eliminate or at least reduce the number of allergens that cause his skin to react, he might not develop what sounds like secondary skin infections, the pimples and fungus/yeast. So identify the underlying cause of the skin problems first and your treatments for the infections should work better.

If allergies are the culprit, they’re more than likely due to one or more of these three allergens

• Fleas, the number one cause of allergies in dogs. Be sure you’re using your flea preventative correctly and that it’s still working.

• Atopy, or a genetic predisposition to develop allergies against things in the environment that are inhaled, higher on the list for a young dog like this

• Food, best determined through an elimination trial where only one protein source is fed for up to 12 weeks to see if symptoms go away.

Don’t be frustrated that a skin specialist will probably start all over taking a thorough history from you, performing a complete physical examination on your dog, and perhaps even repeating some diagnostic tests such as culture, scrapings and biopsy. It will be easier and cheaper in the long run to get to the bottom of this now than to experiment with treatments (both prescribed and home-made) for years.

I will be keeping one of my horses in a heated barn this winter. I will trailer her back and forth to team penning events and would like to know what type of blanket I should use when I am transporting her. She will be sweated up when I leave the event, and I live in Iowa. KB

Dear KB,

If you’re keeping your horse in a heated barn this winter, I’m going to make the assumption that you’ve bodyclipped her. That means whenever she goes outside she’ll need a blanket because she no longer has her natural winter coat to protect her from cold, especially when it’s windy and rainy. So I can tell you she’ll probably need a blanket whenever she’s hauled, but without knowing a few of the details, it’s hard to give you concrete advice. Feeling her when she comes off the trailer will be your best indicator of how much clothing she needs to keep her comfortable. But here are the factors I would consider when making this decision for my own horse:

First, if you have a small two horse trailer with solid walls and another horse alongside her, she’ll only need a sheet or light blanket because these two horses will give off a lot of heat that won’t be lost in the wind. Be sure and crack open some of the windows (especially in the ceiling) so they get plenty of fresh air. On the other hand, if she’ll be traveling alone in a stock trailer with open sides she’ll need a fairly heavy blanket.

Second, even if it’s January and the ground is frozen, if it’s a warm day (like in the 50s or 60s) she’ll only need a sheet, even if she’s in an open trailer. Remember that the “thermoneutral zone” for horses—where there neither too hot nor too cold—is said to be between 20 and 60 degrees, cooler than for us. However, if it’s below this, I recommend a full blanket, or perhaps layering a couple of light ones.

Third, how far and how fast will you be going? A quick 10 mile trip down backroads won’t warrant as much protection against the cold as four hours on the interstate. So take your route into consideration when you’re deciding how to dress her.

Last but not least, make sure she’s completely dry before you trailer her back home. If you’re in a hurry, speed up this process by handwalking her in a cooler designed to wick away moisture. Then put your dry horse under a dry sheet or blanket for the return trip and she should be in great shape! Oh, and if she’s sweating a lot, consider adding a loose electrolyte salt to her meals this winter, at least around days you’ll be traveling and competing. It’s easy and inexpensive insurance against dehydration and the ills that can come from it, such as colic.

My 7 year old Thoroughbred eventer was recently diagnosed with “kissing spines” in the area under the saddle. What causes kissing spines? How common is it? Does it affect certain breeds or horses that are doing certain disciplines more than others? What can I do to prevent it from getting worse? Are there any supplements I can feed my horse to make him feel better? What is the prognosis for his long-term performance and comfort? ES, Pennsylvania

Dear ES,

You’ve asked a lot of questions! Let me tackle them one at a time so you have a clear understanding of this condition and your options.

What causes “kissing spines?”

Known as “kissing spines” by horsemen and “overriding dorsal spinous processes” by veterinarians, in clearest terms the condition is spinal processes that touch or “kiss” one another at rest or in motion. The withers are an excellent example of these spinal processes, long thin bones that protrude upward from each vertebrae.

Although some cases are due to a fall or other injury, many times the conformation of the vertebrae themselves (narrow interspinal spaces) are to blame for the impingement. Spinal processes that rub together are not only painful to the horse, they create additional lesions such as bony remodeling and ligament inflammation.

How common is it? Does it affect certain breeds or horses that are doing certain disciplines more than other?

According to Jean-Marie Denoix, DVM, PhD, an expert in equine biomechanics, “kissing spines” occurs most often in young thoroughbreds or thoroughbred-crosses with short backs used primarily for jumping. Show jumpers appear to be the most commonly affected, although eventers and hunters suffer from this condition as well. Your horse falls into this category.

While some horses with “kissing spines” show clear signs of back pain, many don’t, and diagnosis can be a challenge. Other signs pointing to this condition include back stiffness, reduced jumping ability, resistance to work, change of temperament, resentment of grooming or picking up the hind feet. Horses with “kissing spines” may also be reluctant to lie down or roll.

What can I do to prevent it from getting worse?

Once an impingement is diagnosed, rest is prescribed along with medical treatment and physical therapy. Medical treatment may include local injection of steroids into the interspinal spaces, NSAIDs such as phenylbutazone, and mesotherapy, a pain-dampening technique that stimulates the mesoderm, the middle layer of the skin. Options for physical therapy range from magnets and massage to acupuncture and chiropractic to swimming and shockwave therapy.

Exercise is gradually reintroduced through handwalking, lunging, then riding, being careful to avoid any activity that seems to be painful to the horse while building and strengthening the muscles and ligaments of the back.

Are there any supplements I can feed my horse to make him feel better?

Because “kissing spines” is a condition with pain and inflammation that involves bones, ligaments and muscles, the supplement categories that may be helpful include anti-inflammatory, joint, tendon & ligament, and muscle mass. Specifically look for ingredients that help fight inflammation in tissue such as MSM, omega 3 fatty acids, and herbs like Devil’s Claw, Boswellia, Bromelain and Yucca. Actives like Glucosamine, Chondroitin sulfate and Hyaluronic Acid; Silica and Collagen; and the amino acids Lysine and Methionine may be beneficial to healing tissues.

What is the prognosis for his long-term performance and comfort?

Although many horses do well with a combination of rest, medical management and physical therapy, the clinical signs often return. This may mean decreasing the horse’s level of performance to avoid jarring the spinal processes together or, in severe cases, performing surgery to remove one or more of the processes.

I’ve noticed that a couple of barn dogs like to eat HoofSnax or FlaxSnax if they are left within reach. I’ve wondered if the biotin if the HoofSnax would hurt the dogs in any way. Also I’ve noticed that the horses love dog Milkbones too. Would there be any problems with feeding the occasional horse treat to a dog or dog treat to a horse? Thanks, VC, Florida

Dear VC,

Generally, it’s best to feed treats and foods made specifically for a particular species of animal just to that animal and not to another species. This is because, even though dogs, horses, cats, and humans are all mammals, we’re each made and function a little differently and therefore we metabolize some ingredients a little differently. You may already be aware of some of these differences.

For example, I love chocolate! And it has no effect on me except to make me deliriously happy (and extra “curvy”). However, dogs metabolize chocolate into caffeine–which they are very sensitive to–and can develop serious heart and muscle dysfunction as a result. So, no chocolate for dogs. In the same way, my husband takes acetaminophen (Tylenol) for his aches and pains but we’re very careful to keep it away from our cat because this particular drug is toxic to the feline species. An example in horses is food or mineral blocks made for cattle may contain the growth promotant monensin (Rumensin) which can be fatal in equine.

So I don’t mean to scare you, but unless you carefully read the individual ingredients on the label of each product you wish to share among species—and diligently cross check it against the known toxins for that species—you might be setting up either your dogs or your horses for trouble. I suggest feeding the horses “horse treats” and the dogs “dog treats” (and the people “people treats”) unless you do your homework.

This week, I’ll do your homework for you! Here are the ingredients in HoofSnax:

wheat flour, ground flaxseed, stabilized rice bran, oats, brown sugar, vegetable oil, cinnamon, brewer’s dried yeast, artificial flavors, salt, rosemary, and biotin

I don’t see anything in this ingredient list that should be a problem for dogs. There’s 20mg of biotin (one daily serving for a horse) in 7 cookies, which means there’s about 3mg of biotin in one cookie. I looked on the label of a dog skin & coat supplement that contains biotin and a 50 lb dog would get 3mg per serving so this amount of biotin should be safe in a dog.

FlaxSnax has the same ingredients as HoofSnax minus the biotin.

Finally, about feeding Milk-Bones to horses. They contain:

wheat flour, wheat bran, beef meal and beef bone meal, wheat germ, milk, beef fat preserved with tocopherols, salt, minerals, chicken meal, malted barley flour, brewers dried yeast, sodium metabisulfite (dough conditioner), vitamins, poultry digest, dried cheese, natural and artificial flavor, malic acid, garlic powder.

Again, I don’t see anything that jumps out as toxic to horses, just some things they’re not used to eating, such as beef, chicken and other poultry, and dairy products. I have a horse with a very sensitive GI tract and I would not give a dog treat to him for fear of causing colic, diarrhea or other disturbance.