Sometimes, names that sound good in a Korean boardroom just don’t translate well into foreign languages. Take the i-Flow, for example, which sounds like a monthly problem experienced by women and preceeded by mood swings, water retention and cramping.
Naming aside, the i-Flow represents the latest in forward thinking from Hyundai, a company who is momentarily white-hot. The i-Flow is a diesel electric hybrid concept that uses a 1.7 liter diesel motor with two stage turbocharging, in conjunction with an electric motor and lithium ion batteries. A six speed, dual clutch transmission feeds the power to the wheels and is partially responsible for the i-Flow’s claims of 78 miles per gallon. Hyundai states that the futuristic shape yields a drag coefficient of just 0.25Cd, but there seems to be an awful lot of grille area to achieve that number.
Hyundai worked with BASF on the interior materials, but we may have to wait until Geneva for interior pics. Somewhat disturbing is the announced “contoured screen interface” in the center stack, that will respond to “gestural inputs”. I’m pretty sure I don’t want my car responding to gestural inputs or voice commands, otherwise I’d be leaving a Godzilla-like path of destruction behind me every time I got in the car.
This video shows why you should invest in a good set of winter tires if you live in snow country. It also demonstrates the differences between locking the brakes, threshold braking and ABS; the effect speed has on stopping distance and why you should never mix all season and winter tires on the same vehicle.
I live in Florida now, but spent better than 25 years driving in snow country. I’m a huge proponent of winter tires, and can tell you from personal experience that they do exactly as their manufacturers claim. A good set of winter tires, on a set of steel (or cheap alloy) wheels, will probably set you back less than the cost of your insurance deductible. I say it’s money well spent.
Update: YouTube responded to the letter from EFF and the National Coalition Against Censorship by doing just what we asked. They state: “We have re-reviewed your videos and have reinstated them with an age gate.” This is good news, and YouTube is to be commended for correcting its error. Amy Greenfield’s channel now has her videos.
Still, the fact that it took two nationally known groups to bring this matter to YouTube’s attention is troubling. It demonstrates that YouTube still has work to do to create a viable appeals process. In addition, as we noted below, YouTube should still change its policy to expressly allow artistic works that contain nudity, and give individual artists the same freedom it reserves for professional television and film.
Previous Post: Today EFF and the National Coalition Against Censorship (NCAC) wrote to YouTube, asking the video hosting giant to reconsider its removal of the work of internationally recognized video artist Amy Greenfield.
Amy Greenfield received notice from YouTube that her works, which contain some artistic nudity, did not conform with YouTube’s “community standards.” Under YouTube’s policies, “films and television shows may contain [full nudity]; however, videos originating from the YouTube user community must abide by the YouTube Community Guidelines and are not permitted to include such content.” (emphasis in original). The Community Guidelines purport to allow nudity with “some educational, documentary and scientific content, but only if that is the sole purpose of the video and it is not gratuitously graphic,” but does not recognize the value of nudity in art.
When video artists present works that have clear artistic, political or educational merit, YouTube should allow the artist to post the material with at least the same freedom as major studio films and television. If a user community video is flagged as inappropriate, YouTube should at least have an appeals process to allow an artist to explain the artistic merit. While we understand YouTube’s desire to keep pornography off its servers, it must also understand that not all nude art is pornographic.
What happens when you drop a 511 cubic inch Ford FE motor in an old F250 4wd pickup that has the bed and hood removed to save weight? Well, for starters you turn 6.9s in the 1/8 mile, at 99.7 miles per hour. At a Wyoming drag strip that sits 6,600 feet above sea level. Damn.
The second generation Porsche Cayenne is set to be unveiled at the upcoming Geneva Motor Show, but the widespread distribution of bootleg images on the internet have convinced Porsche to release press photos ahead of time. As you can see from the above and below images, Porsche was conservative with the restyling of their best selling vehicle. The sloping front end gives a more sporty, less truck-like appearance, and the updated rear causes the Cayenne to blend in with the rest of the crossover crowd. You can see styling elements pulled from the Panamera, but what fails on the sedan somehow works on the SUV.
More pics after the jump.
Engine options will include a 300 horsepower V6 in the base model, a 400 horsepower V8 in the Cayenne S and a 500 horsepower turbo’d V8 in the Cayenne Turbo. New for 2011 will be the Cayenne Hybrid, which features a 330 horsepower V6 combined with a 47 horsepower electric motor, driven by lithium ion batteries. The hybrid is said to be good for 34.5 mpg combined, and fuel economy across the Cayenne range has been improved by 23%. All Cayenne models will use an eight speed, dual clutch automatic gearbox and no manual transmission will be offered.
The interior has been restyled and borrows heavily from the Panamera, which isn’t a bad thing. At first glance, the seats, steering wheel and instruments appear to be common, undoubtedly saving Porsche money by reducing parts inventory. I’m a big fan of the Panamera’s interior, so I see nothing wrong with grafting it into the new Cayenne.
I still don’t understand the Cayenne’s appeal, but then again I’m not exactly their target demographic. For those of you who need a crossover with the Porsche logo, it seems like the new Cayenne won’t disappoint.
Lotus will show a hybrid version of the Evora at the upcoming Geneva Motor Show. Called the Lotus Evora 414E Hybrid (at least until marketing works their branding magic), the car is powered by lithium polymer batteries driving one electric motor at each rear wheel. The motors produce 207 horsepower each, so the car’s name is derived from their combined horsepower. The batteries alone are good for around 35 miles, before the 1.2 liter gasoline motor kicks in to recharge them. Total range is said to be 300 miles between charges.
Since each motor also makes 295 ft-lbs. of torque, acceleration is brisk: zero to sixty is said to take less than four seconds. Each motor uses a single speed reduction transmission, but the car allows torque vectoring between the two motors for maximum traction. A selectable “sport mode” will simulate a seven speed paddle shift transmission, so the Evora doesn’t feel like a really fast golf cart.
Lotus is also using the Evora Hybrid to showcase their HALOsonic Internal and External Electronic Sound Synthesis, which gives pedestrians an indication of the otherwise silent car’s approach. The HALOsonic system also allows drivers to select the desired engine sound for the vehicle, including a V6, a V12 and a “futuristic propulsion” sound. OK, that’s just a little cheesy for my tastes, but otherwise I’d call the concept a hit.
Just like we told you on Tuesday, GM’s deal to sell Hummer to Sichuan Tengzhong is now deader than Generalissimo Francisco Franco. Before giving the ‘do not resuscitate’ order, GM admitted their disappointment with the deal’s collapse. Plans are to wind down the Hummer business and close the remaining dealerships in an orderly fashion; GM will continue to honor warranties on Hummer vehicles, presumably through GMC Truck dealerships.
Cars have gotten good, maybe too good, over the past few decades. Skills that were essential even twenty years ago have all but been forgotten. Who needs to check tire pressure when you have sensors to do this for you? Who wants to learn to drive a manual when there are so many good sequential automatics to choose from, some that even shift faster than a trained racer? Who needs to worry about oversteer when you’ve got yaw control on your new car?
The correct answer to all of these questions is, “you do”. Why? Because you just never know what life will throw at you. Let’s say you’re on your first business trip to Europe, and you go to collect your rental car. Chances are good that it’ll be a manual transmission, so do you really want to demonstrate your driving fail to your new colleagues?
How about this: you come out of a store, and missus right (or mister right, depending on your sex and orientation) with no ring on her hand needs a tire changed. Or has a dead battery. Are you really going to walk away, telling her to “call AAA, they’ll hook you up”?
Here are ten skills, in order of difficulty, that every driver should have. Some are maintenance related, others are driving related. Some you’ll use all the time, others you’ll use once in a lifetime. The common theme? All are really good skills to learn.
Check Your Tire Pressure
Sure, the video tells you how, but here’s what I suggest. First, buy a real tire gauge, the dial type with a bleed valve and rubber armor. It’ll cost you ten or twenty bucks, but you’ll have a solid, accurate gauge for the rest of your life. Pencil type gauges and digital gauges are crap and aren’t always accurate. Ditto with gauges on gas station air pumps.
Always check your tire pressure cold and inflate to the pressure recommended in your owners manual (or on your door sticker). Inflation pressure will vary with vehicle load, so be sure to pay attention to this. Even if you have tire pressure sensors on your car (and you do if it was built after 2006), check your tires at least once per month.
Check Your Oil, Coolant, and Transmission Fluids
Always check your owner’s manual to make sure you know where the oil dipstick, transmission dipstick (automatic transmissions only) and coolant reservoir are located. Do not, under any circumstances, mix up your oil and transmission dipsticks or your coolant and windshield washer reservoirs. Bad, bad things will happen if you do.
To check the oil, make sure the car is warmed up. Turn the car off and wait a minute or so for the warm oil to drain back down into the oil pan. Open the hood and find the oil dipstick. Remove it, wiping the oil off with a clean rag. Reinsert the dipstick, pull it out and hold it in a horizontal position. You’re looking for the oil level to be between L (low) and F (full). If the oil level is below L (very, very bad), add oil until the level reads F. If the level is halfway between L and F, or closer to F then I wouldn’t recommend adding additional oil. If it’s below half, add a few ounces of oil at a time, then recheck it on the dipstick. Low oil is very, very bad, but overfilling your oil can be equally bad.
On new cars, you shouldn’t have to worry much about coolant. If you’re under the hood checking hte oil, just take a look at the coolant reservoir. If it’s between the “Min” and the “Full” markings, you’re good to go. If it’s not, you could have a problem. Add distilled water to the coolant tank (never the radiator) until the level is above “Min”. Cars don’t consume coolant, so get it to the shop to be checked out.
Transmission dipsticks can be located in some funky places, and generally they’re at the back of the engine. The transmission dipstick can be really long, so keep this in mind when you’re pulling it out (remember, it’s always a party until someone loses an eye). First, read your owners manual. Most manufacturers want the transmission fluid checked while the vehicle is running and in “Park”; make sure this is the case for yours. You already know where the transmission dipstick is located, because you RTFM’d earlier; find it, remove it, wipe it clean and reinsert it. Remove it again, and check the level of fluid. Below L and H? You’re good to go.
Change a Headlight Bulb (non HID headlights)
Halogen headlights generally last a long, long time, so you won’t be doing this often. First, make sure you have the correct wattage replacement bulb. Next, open the hood and find the back of the bad headlight. Take off the rubber boot, disconnect the electrical connection (generally by squeezing the sides or top and pulling the connector off) and remove the existing bulb and mount (generally by turing counter clockwise until the mount comes loose). Pull out the old bulb and discard. Keep the new bulb in its plastic sleeve (to avoid getting fingerprints on it, which will shorten bulb life) and press it into the mount. Reinstall the mount, reattach the electrical connector, put the rubber boot back in place and you’re done.
Change a Tire
It never ceases to amaze me how few drivers actually know how to change a tire. It’s a basic skill, and one you can practice at home in about 15 minutes. First, RTFM; know where your jack, lug wrench and spare tire are located. Next, make sure your car is in “Park” with the handbrake firmly engaged. If you drive a manual, put the transmission in first or reverse, then make sure your handbrake is fully engaged. Put something underneath the wheel diagonally away from the one you’re changing to block it; a rock or piece of wood will do fine. Take the tools out of your car and remove the wheel cover (if you’ve got one) on the wheel to be changed. With the car on the ground. use the lug wrench to break the lug nuts free. Stand on the lug wrench to provide the maximum force if you can’t get them off by hand. Loosen each lug bolt just a little bit (one turn), then insert the jack under the car at the spot recommended by your manufacturer. Turn the jack screw clockwise to raise the car, and do this until the tire to be changed is about an inch off the pavement. Now remove all lug nuts, pull the flat tire and wheel off the car and put on the spare. Replace the lug nuts and tighten by hand as much as you can. Lower the car by turning the jack screw counter clockwise (anti clockwise, if you’re in the UK) until the jack comes free. Now, tighten the lug bolts with the wrench, making them as tight as you can get them by hand. Put the tools away, throw the flat tire into the trunk and drive away with some self satisfaction.
Jump Start a Car With a Dead Battery
Sooner or later, you’re going to have a dead battery. Sure, you can carry around one of those portable jump starters, but who’s got room in their car of one? Not me. It’s better to learn the good, old fashioned skill of jump-starting a car.
Make sure the dead battery isn’t frozen, cracked or visibly damaged before you attempt this. Battery explosions aren’t cool, especially if you’re anywhere near one.
Since you already have a car with a dead battery, you’ll need one with a good battery. Pull the two as close together as possible, battery to battery. Be aware that not all cars have the battery under the hood, so make sure you know where both batteries are located. Next, get out the jumper cables. Make sure that both cars are turned off and in park, with the handbrakes on. Connect the red jumper clip to the positive terminal of the dead battery. Connect the other red jumper clip to the positive terminal of the good battery. Next, connect the black jumper clip to the negative terminal of the good battery; finally, connect the other black jumper clip to a ground on the vehicle with the dead battery. This can be nearly any exposed metal on the engine.
I’m old school, so I like to start the good vehicle before I try to start the one with the dead battery. Once the good car is running, try to start the one with the dead battery. Nine times out of ten the car will start right up. If it doesn’t start in the first thirty seconds, it’s probably not going to – time to call a tow truck.
Stop a Vehicle With a Stuck Throttle
We’ve already covered this one, so I’ll recap the steps quickly. First, don’t panic. Next, push the brake pedal as hard as you can to the floor and hold it. Now, move the gear shift into Neutral, which will be one up (or up and over) from Drive. On a
manual transmission car, Neutral will be above 2, 4, and 6 and below 1, 3, and 5. Don’t worry about the motor, since the rev limiter will keep it from grenading. Steer to the right shoulder and turn off the motor when you’ve come to a stop. You’re not going to fix it, so call for a tow truck on this one.
Control Understeer and Oversteer
This is too broad to cover in detail here, so we’ll actually do an entire column on it in the future.
Understeer, or “push” is when the car’s front wheels are turned but the vehicle is continuing in a straight line. Generally speaking, this is caused by asking the front wheels to do too much at the same time with the amount of traction available. Want to counter it? Do less of what you’re doing. In a front wheel drive car, this can be accelerating, turning, braking or some combination of all three. Understeer requires room to correct, so make sure you practice recovery in a vacant parking lot with no obstacles. Nothing sucks more than explaining to your buddies how you pretzeled a wheel in an empty parking lot.
Oversteer, or “loose” in racing terms is when the back end of the car comes loose. This is usually caused by exceeding the limits of the rear tires’ traction, weight transfer, road surface changes or generous application of the throttle in a rear wheel drive car. To catch oversteer, gently lift off the throttle just a bit and turn in the direction of the skid. If the car breaks left, turn left; if the car breaks right, turn right.
Handle a Tire Blowout at Speed
Been there, done that – I once had a rear tire on a rented Mustang explode at around 80 mph. While the experience wasn’t pleasant, it really wasn’t a big deal, either.
First, don’t panic. Your initial reaction will be to lift off the gas and hit the brakes, but this is the absolute worst thing you can do. Gently begin to lift off the throttle, while trying to maintain lane presence. At this point, every correction you make in steering should be gentle as well. Let the car coast down in speed, and begin to gently apply partial brakes. Once the car is below 30 mph, begin to steer to the shoulder and brake to a stop.
Execute a Handbrake Turn
Why would you ever need to learn how to do a handbrake turn? Because you just never know when you’ll need to change direction suddenly. A handbrake turn once saved my bacon when a car pulled out in front of me. I wasn’t going to stop in time, but I was able to get the rear of my car rotated quick enough to avoid center punching the other driver. Was it pretty? No. Did it work? Yes.
First, handbrake turns are dangerous, so practice them at your own risk. A car with a low center of gravity is best; under no circumstances would I attempt one in an SUV. Also, keep you speed below 45 mph; above that, and you’ve got a much better chance of finding out how strong your roof really is.
Make sure you’ve got plenty of room around you and start slow (say, 30 mph). Drive in a straight line until you reach the spot where you want to turn. Grasp across the steering wheel, since you’re going to rotate it about 180 degrees. Begin to turn, then quickly pull up on the hand brake with sufficient force to lock the rear wheels. Continue to turn in, but release the brake and begin to apply throttle gently. If you did it correctly and carried the right amount of speed into the turn, your car should have rotated about 180 degrees. Cool, huh?
Drive a Manual Transmission
Start with a very patient friend or relative who drives a car with a manual transmission. Bribe them, beg them, blackmail them to teach you, because there’s no way you’re going to learn even the basics by reading about it or watching a video.
The process is simple. Clutch in, select first gear, gently release clutch until it begins to grab and apply throttle. Clutch in, foot off throttle, select second gear release clutch, accelerate. Repeat until you’ve worked through all the gears, about a thousand times. Now you’re ready to drive a stick shift on level surfaces. Hills are a whole other story.
Honda will display the 3R-C concept vehicle prominently in their Geneva Motor Show booth. Could this be an indicator of things to come from the auto and motorcycle giant?
Powered by a battery electric drivetrain, Honda has yet to release information on performance, range, charge times or production intent. The concept features a retractable canopy that provides security when the vehicle is parked and doubles as a windshield when the vehicle is in motion.
Past attempts at three wheelers have met with limited success. The Campagna T-Rex sure looked like fun, but not at the $52,000 price of admission. Can-Am’s Spyder was more reasonably priced at around $20,000, but many saw it as a motorcycle with training wheels since it didn’t offer the practicality of an enclosed (or semi-enclosed) cockpit. The Reliant Robin never made it to this side of the pond, and most Brits will tell you that’s a good thing.
Three wheelers may never be the year-round commuter car of choice for those living in snow country, but may still represent a reasonable option for commuters in warmer climates. Make them affordable and entertaining enough to drive and you’ll sell them in northern states, too – that’s what winter time beater cars are for.
I’m all in favor of a 3R-C model line, and would love to see Honda produce both battery and gas powered versions. The low-drag body design would make even the gasoline versions incredibly fuel efficient, allowing enthusiasts to enjoy the 3R-C without guilt. Offer a version with the new VFR1200 motor, build it at an MSRP under $20k and I bet you’ll move a boatload of inventory.
BERU F1 Systems, a British firm that specializes in supplying performance engineering solutions to motor sports, has taken a blank slate approach to redesigning the bicycle. To start, the firm opted for a carbon fiber frame that uses a twin spar down tube and seat tube to improve stiffness yet reduce weight. The fork blades are carried to the top of the head tube, reducing the mass of the fork crown and improving the loading of steering bearings. The wheels are made entirely from carbon fiber and feature hydraulic disc brakes front and rear, with carbon ceramic discs being an option for dry weather riding. The bike’s information system monitors rider output, temperature, atmospheric pressure and even includes a GPS function for routing.
Each Factor 001 is built to a riders specific measurements, and all this technology comes at a Formula 1 sized price: the Factor 001 starts at $34,000. High? Perhaps, but consider that other hand built, carbon fiber framed bikes are selling for as much as $25,000.
While I’m happy to see a company pushing the envelope of bicycle design, I can’t help but wonder what the Factor 001’s purpose is. No specs are given on weight, but a bicycle ridden in the Tour de France must weight 15 pounds, and I’m guessing that the Factor 001 comes in quite a bit below that. If it can’t be used in competition by the sport’s best athletes, is the Factor 001 doomed to be just another “hey look at me” status symbol for ultra-wealthy recreational riders?
After yesterday’s ass-kicking of Jim Lentz, president of Toyota Motor Company in the U.S., it’s Akio Toyoda’s turn to appear before the House Oversight Committee. If yesterday’s inquisition was any indicator, expect it to get ugly. Link to video below:
If you’re a Wall Street executive, you know that time is money. Can’t stand being driven to work at the pedestrian speeds a regular BMW 760iL is capable of? Have a chauffeur with an FIA Superlicense and need to keep his skills sharp? Stress no more, mister baron-of-the-boardroom, we know how you’re spending your next quarterly bonus.
G-Power, the German tuner known for their work with BMW, has turned their attention to the 760, the big dog of BMW’s lineup. By nearly doubling the boost pressure of the V-12’s twin turbos, remapping the ECU, adding larger injectors and a completely new exhaust they’ve created a 760 with 725 horsepower and 738 ft-lbs of torque. The eight speed transmission is also beefed up to handle the motor’s additional power.
How fast will this get you to the country club? G-Power claims a 760i will hit 60 mph in just 4.2 seconds, on its way to a top speed of 215 mph. Expect the larger, longer 760iL to get there just a tick slower. In other words, much faster than your neighbors Mercedes S class.
Not that you’re worried about cost, but here are the details: the drive-it-yourself 760i converted to a G-Power Storm will cost you $495,500, while the “I’m too important to drive myself” 760iL will set you back $510,000. Hey, it’s only taxpayer’s money, so why not order one of each?
Here are the official pictures of the 2012 Chevrolet Aveo, based on the Aveo RS concept car shown in Detroit. The good news? The exterior receives a complete re-do, complete with “angy samurai” grille and really big headlights. The four door body style shown here won’t offend anyone, and the car might be mistaken for the latest Volvo since the lines are somewhat S40ish. The interior looks decent, sporting a two tone dash and door panel combo. The half digital, half analog instruments make the Aveo look like a more expensive car than it really is.
New interior designed not to rattle on the dealer’s lot.
So what’s the bad news? It’s still based on a Daewoo platform that all the up-contenting in the world won’t fix. Expect plenty of squeaks, rattles, electrical gremlins and mechanical failures, just like past Aveos.
Chrysler has announced the recall of 312,00 minivans from model years 2005 and 2006. Models impacted are the Chrysler Town and Country, the Dodge Caravan and the Dodge Grand Caravan. Under the right conditions, water can enter front crash sensors, causing them to fail.
Only vehicles sold or registered in “cold weather” states are being recalled, and Chrysler dealers won’t have replacement sensors in stock until June. Faulty sensors will trigger an airbag warning light, so there’s no need to be concerned if you’re warning light isn’t activated.
First, the good news: Saab is now officially owned by Spyker, so open up the aquavit and turn the freak knob up to 12, Saabophiles.
Now the bad news: it looks the the deal to dump sell Hummer to Sichuan Tengzhong Heavy Industrial Machinery is terminally pooched. The original sale deadline was to be this week, but GM agreed to a 30 day extension to get Chinese regulatory approval. China’s commerce ministry appears reluctant to approve the deal, which goes counter to their plans of domestic automaker consolidation. Furthermore, the Chinese government is encouraging citizens to purchase small, environmentally friendly vehicles, which is counter to Hummer’s brand and identity. In short, Beijing has stamped “no deal” across the GM – Sichuan Tengzhong contract.
No saving this Hummer, either.
Sichuan Tengzhong is hoping to put together a deal with a third party outside of China, but the likelihood of this seems slim. Looks like Hummers days may be numbered, which should come as a surprise to no one.
CAFE, or Corporate Average Fuel Economy, is a government-set standard that requires automakers to meet certain fuel economy ratings across their fleet. Take Chevy, for example: the fuel economy of the ZR1 Corvette (16 mpg combined) is offset by the fuel economy of the Aveo (30 mpg combined). Calculation is based on harmonic mean, not arithmetic mean and involves a rather complex equation factoring in vehicle type, fuel economy and units produced. Under the current standard, adopted in 2007, manufacturers must achieve a CAFE rating of 27.5 for passenger cars and 23.5 for light trucks.
In May of 2009, Barack Obama proposed a new national fuel economy standard. The bill is set to be signed into law in May of 2010, and will go into effect with the 2012 model year. By 2016, the new standard will be roughly 39 mpg for passenger cars and 30 mpg for light trucks.
Porsche, because of product mix, will need to achieve a CAFE of 41.4 mpg by the 2016 model year. Given that their current CAFE is 27 mpg, an increase of 14.4 mpg across the product line in six years is all but impossible. Under the terms of the new proposed CAFE regulations, Porsche could continue to sell vehicles in the US as long as they were willing to pay a fine on each vehicle sold. This has been standard practice for years with manufacturers such as Mercedes, Porsche, Ferrari and Lamborghini. The problem? Under the terms of the new standard, the fine per vehicle increases from a few hundred dollars to $37,500 per car. No, that’s not a misprint; Porsche would need to pay the government $37,500 for each unit sold in the US after 2016.
The new standard also incorporates wheel base and track width numbers, and heavily favor domestic manufacturers. Foreign brands with a diverse product mix (such as VW or Audi) will fare better, but still have reason to be concerned. A sales volume increase in Volkswagen’s Toureg or Audi’s Q7 may drive their CAFE requirements beyond what is achievable, forcing them from the U.S. market as well.
The bill isn’t signed into law yet, and a lot can happen in six years. Still, the thought of losing iconic brands like Porsche to government regulations doesn’t sit well with me. If you’re a car guy, it shouldn’t sit well with you either.
Or it may not, we’re not really sure. Shown is the 2011 Nissan Pathfinder as it will look on the other side of the pond. Nissan will debut the new model in Geneva, and we’ve been told that it’ll probably show up in New York as well.
Changes are relatively minor and include a revised front fascia, new badging and trim, new wheel options and “improved” interior quality. No changes are expected to the existing US motor options, which include the standard 4.0 liter V6 and the optional 5.6 liter V8. Sadly, neither the 2.5 liter four cylinder diesel nor the all new 3.0 liter turbo diesel developed with Renault will make it to the United States.
New and improved? Not by much.
More content or just more buttons?
The current Nissan Pathfinder isn’t exactly flying out of dealer showrooms. I’m not sure that a little more makeup and a few more interior bells and whistles is going to have a noticeable impact on Pathfinder sales. Bringing in a few diesel options, when no other manufacturer offers them? Now that, in my opinion, would make the Pathfinder a more attractive option on this side of the pond.
I’m not a big fan of today’s “investigative journalism”, because all too often it turns out to be a witch hunt designed only to improve ratings. Thus, I viewed the above video with some skepticism. Dave Gilbert, a professor from Southern Illinois University, claims to have found circumstance under which he can re-create Toyota’s sudden acceleration problems. By shorting unspecified electronics, Gilbert is able to induce sudden acceleration even at partial throttle openings. Worse yet (and counter to Toyota’s claims), he’s able to do this without tripping a trouble code or dashboard warning lights.
Is it hype or a legitimate cause for concern? To be certain, we’d need more details, which the video simply doesn’t provide. First, what is being shorted? Second, what is the likelihood that such a short could be caused by moisture, corrosion, solder bloom, etc. in a real world environment? Finally, were the OEM parts modified in any way to promote the sudden acceleration and prove ABC’s point? Gilbert had previously modified a Toyota Tundra, using a resistor to short two independent circuits and duplicate the unintended acceleration. Toyota rebuffed this, saying that such a short would be virtually impossible in a real world situation. Furthermore, it would illuminate dash warning lights and record an error code, counter to Gilbert’s claims.
Toyota has requested access to the Toyota Avalon used in the ABC video, but they won’t get it before Gilbert testifies in front of the House committee today. If Gilbert’s right, then Toyota’s credibility in the US may be permanently damaged and I’d expect some senior level Toyota heads to roll.
If Gilbert’s wrong, and the video is proven to be staged under questionable circumstances, Toyota’s reputation still suffers. Ultimately, any repercussions for ABC news will be very small in comparison.
