Author: kurt

Thanks to M. Espinosa for supplying pics of his silver ice metallic 2010 Camaro SS. The 6.2 liter motor cranks out 426 horsepower in stock form, more than enough to light the 275/40-20 tires at the rear.

I was impressed by how well the Camaros ran during the Rolex 24 at Daytona, and I’m really liking the spy shots of the drop top version. Could a Camaro SS find its way into my garage?

There was once a time, before minivans and SUVs, when full-sized vans ruled the streets. Ford Econoline, Dodge Tradesman, ChevyVan, GMC VanDura: these names were the stuff of legend. Outlandish airbrushed murals, most with some kind of sci-fi theme, graced the sides of these rolling motel rooms. Shag carpet, disco balls and (of course) folding mattresses filled the interiors.

Vans were a statement of identity, a private place to get your freak on and a guarantee that you’d always have a place to crash. The craze of building custom vans started in the seventies, and by the turn of the decade it was all but over. Full sized vans make have been great places to go heels-up-to-Jesus, but they sucked for everything else. They weren’t fun to drive, they were damn near impossible to park and they sucked down gas like Lindsey Lohan sucks down appletinis. By the time the minivan had made it’s entry into US car culture, the full sized van’s days were numbered.

Joe Stevens, a photographer and filmmaker, began documenting the surviving vans in a work he’s called “vans and the places they were”. Shot throughout the West, Steven’s images are captured on medium format film, not on digital media. He sees the connection between the decline of the van and the decline of photographic film, and hopes to capture the last remaining van on the final frame of photographic film available.

Source: vans and the places they were via Neatorama

Poor Charlie Sheen: the LAPD spend so much time at his house, they may as well set up a substation there. Last night, they found his Mecedes SUV at the bottom of a ravine off of Mulholland Drive; coincidentally, he reported the car stolen about the same time.

On the plus side, the actor’s OK and it wasn’t a Bugatti Veyron or classic Ferrari. Maybe he’s just trying to live up to the driving talent exhibited in his Hanes ads:

Carlos was a man who hated to get sand in his trunk. And really, really liked dry towels.

Source: You Drive What?

Wow, just wow. Couldn’t pass up sharing this video from our friends at Hooniverse. Enjoy the gratuitous semi-nudity at the 21 second mark. Knowing Australians, it seems to me that they left out “beer”.

 

Employees of St. Louis exotic car dealership learned the hard way that big hoonage comes at a big cost. A salesman and and another employee filmed themselves strafing local highways, in the slow lane, just north of one hundred and fifty miles per hour. Understandably, this drew the attention of the local police, who arrested the pair on a host of charges ranging from reckless driving to felonious mopery. The video, withdrawn from YouTube, will be used as evidence by the prosecution.

Source: Fox2 via RPMgo

I’m not much of a Harley guy, though I do have a strange attraction to their XR1200. I also like the look of a well done bobber, like the one you see above. Throw in the fact that it’s powered by a V6 from Alfa Romeo, and I’m in. All in.

Alfa motors (and Italian engines in general) are the sweetest sounding mechanical devices on God’s green earth. Seventy one virgins, simultaneously achieving orgasmic bliss, could not rival the sound of a properly tuned Alfa Duetto. Throw in two more cylinders, and I’m sure it only gets better.

Sure, it’s a hardtail, which you could only ride for about ten miles before requiring spinal surgery. Sure, those heat wrapped exhaust pipes would roast you legs like a Thanksgiving turkey. Sure, that primary chain for the transmission would turn your left foot to hamburger before you got to the first stop light. But I GET this bike, so none of that matters.

If I had the coin, I’d be dialing the builder right now. I’ve got just the right spot in my living room for a piece of rolling sculpture.

Source: Jalopnik

I live in Florida, aka the “Gunshine State”, where anyone with US citizenship, no felony convictions, a few hundred dollars and an afternoon to kill can get a license to carry a concealed handgun. Based upon what I see every day on the roads down here, the requirements for getting a driver’s license are even more relaxed. I’m thinking that licenses come on the back of specially marked cereal boxes, because we’ve got some of the worst drivers in the world down here (and yes, I’ve driven all over the world).

Road rage is all but unavoidable on today’s crowded highways. More drivers, more cars, more stress – ultimately, something has to give. Most road rage incidents are prompted by a victim’s action: perhaps they cut someone off, weren’t going fast enough or didn’t signal. Maybe it’s just because the victim was driving a red car and the rager just shot himself full of ‘roids. You can’t eliminate all the psychopaths on the roads today, but you can minimize your chances of pissing one off. Here’s how:

– Hang up and drive. Do you gulp down a handful of ‘ludes and smoke a bowl of Humboldt before you get behind the wheel? Down a quart of vodka before running the kids to soccer practice? Probably not, so why would you engage in something that has the same effect on your reaction time? Before you make or answer a call behind the wheel, think about this: is this conversation really necessary? Are you talking an inexperienced neurosurgeon though a delicate procedure to save some head of state? Guiding a bomb tech on how to disarm that suitcase nuke on the steps of the White House? I’m guessing no. If you really can’t pass on talking to your BFF every ten minutes, get a headset or speaker phone. They’re still disruptive (since the brain can’t process two complex tasks simultaneously without compromising both), but they’re better than talking on a handset. And never, under any circumstances, text while driving.

– Yield the left lane. In most civilized nations (Germany, for example), blocking the left lane is a sin on par with killing your mother and eating her liver. In the U.S., most states don’t have “keep right” laws on the books; if they do, they’re rarely enforced. It’s common sense, people: don’t block other drivers from passing and you probably won’t piss them off. It’s not your job to enforce traffic laws; it’s your job to get you and your passengers safely from point A to point B.

– Learn to read road conditions. It never ceases to amaze me how paranoid drivers get down here when it rains. Sure, the roads may have less traction than usual, but this is no reason to drive like you’re hauling a 55 gallon drum of nitroglycerin in a pickup truck with collapsed leaf springs and bad shocks. If rain, or ice, or snow make you that paranoid, get training. There are plenty of driving schools and driving instructors that will teach you the skills you need for driving in bad weather. Know your limits: if you can’t drive safely in bad weather, stay off the roads.

– Adjust your mirrors properly. How many drivers even bother to adjust the mirrors in their car? Do your mirrors allow you to see the blind spots on either side? If you’ve adjusted your mirrors properly, the answer is yes. Here’s how you do it, courtesy of CarTalk.

– Don’t drive in someone’s blind spot. On the highway, in moving traffic, you should never drive alongside and slightly behind another vehicle. Do you really think that driver eating the Big Mac and drinking the 55 gallon soda, while yelling at his wife on the phone, is going to give more than a casual glance over his shoulder before changing lanes? Don’t make yourself vulnerable; either pass the driver or tuck in behind him. Of course you can’t avoid driving in blind spots on crowded highways, so just be aware; if you’re in someone else’s blind spot, expect the unexpected and prepare to take evasive action.

– Don’t eat and drive. The average person can go about two weeks without food, so chances are pretty good that you won’t die before you reach your destination. Trust me, that Egg McMuffin can wait. The same thing goes for shaving, reading, applying makeup or brushing your teeth behind the wheel (and yes, I’ve witnessed all of these); do it at home or do it at the office.

– Look twice before you pull into traffic. Then look again. Not a day goes by that I’m not cut off by a driver merging into traffic. Most of these are cell phone related acts of stupidity, but not all. Some drivers insist on pulling into traffic without regard to oncoming vehicles; hey, other drivers have brakes, right? It’s even worse when you ride a motorcycle, because bikes are virtually invisible to the average unaware driver.

– Don’t tailgate. Most driver’s don’t even realize they’re doing it, but when you’re mere feet from the car in front of you, traveling at seventy miles per hour, you’re an accident waiting for a place to happen. Modern brakes and tires are good, but they’re not THAT good. Give yourself a few car lengths between you and the car in front of you, and watch what traffic is doing in front of him. The more reaction time you buy yourself, the less likely it is you’ll hit the car in front of you when something goes wrong.

– Turn signals – use ‘em. That little stalk on the left side of the steering column? That’s your turn signal indicator. Pull up, and your right directional is activated. Push down, and your left directional lights up. Here’s the tricky part (and try to stay with me on this): you don’t want to signal a mile in advance, nor does it do much good to signal when you’re at your turn. A couple hundred feet, depending upon your speed, should do the trick. Also, after the turn don’t assume your directional is turned off. See that blinking green light on the dash? Yep, your indicator is still on. Just shut it off manually, okay?

– In general, don’t be an asshat. Serial killers and sociopaths aside, most people are civil to others when face to face. So why does that go out the window when drivers strap into their rolling battlewagons? Is it the feeling of invincibility behind the wheel of an SUV large enough to have it’s own gravitational pull? Is it the feeling of anonymity, the knowledge that you can screw some poor schmuck with no repercussions? Maybe it’s “C”, all of the above. In any case, try this: if you wouldn’t act a certain way face to face with another, don’t do it behind the wheel.

That’s all I’ve got on this topic, and hopefully it’s enough to keep you safe on the mean streets. If it’s not, remember that bullets typically deflect up when fired through auto glass, and if you need a firearms instructor just drop me a line.

Buying a new car shouldn’t require a prescription for Xanax. If you spend the time to figure out exactly what you’re looking for and what you’re willing to pay for it, then it’s just a matter of finding a dealer who’ll work with you. Sure, I’ve encountered my share of amoral scumbag car dealers over the years, but the vast majority of businesses I’ve dealt with have been courteous and helpful. Here are a few tips to ease the pain of your next new car buying experience:

– Don’t believe the dealer’s advertising hype. If a dealership spends the bulk of its advertising budget trying to convince you that they’re the little guy, or that it’s a family business, or that they have the lowest prices in town, chances are that none of it is true. If they offer you a “free extended warranty”, you’re paying for it somewhere. Car dealerships are like Las Vegas or strippers: they exist to separate you from your money as quickly and efficiently as possible. You’re not car shopping to make a new BFF; you’re shopping to get the vehicle you want at a price you’re willing to pay.

– Always have financing worked out ahead of time. If you’re lucky enough to buy new cars with cash, this rule doesn’t apply. For the rest of us working class heroes, make sure you know what special deals are available from the manufacturer and from your bank or credit union. Get pre approved, as this eliminates any last minute surprises when you go to close the deal. Never fall for the “how much can you afford per month?” line from a car salesman; know what you’re willing to pay, and how much you’ve qualified for before you walk in the showroom.

– Always test drive the car you’re going to buy, even if the dealer has to special order it. I never cease to be amazed at the new cars I drive that have rattles, bad alignment or other QC related issues. If something is wrong with the way the car drives or sounds, pick another vehicle or dealership.

– Understand everything you’re paying for. See something on the sticker you’re not sure of? Ask for a full explanation. If the salesman won’t give it (or worse yet, tries to feed you BS), don’t be afraid to walk away. A good example is ADM, which stands for Additional Dealer Markup and can commonly be found on high demand, limited production vehicles. If you see this on the Shelby GT 500 KR you’re lusting after, try to negotiate. If you see this on a Toyota Camry, just walk away from the dealership.

– Know exactly what you want before heading to the dealer. Do your homework ahead of time; pick the models and trim levels you’re interested in and build a cost analysis spreadsheet. You can find invoice and list prices at several internet sites (including KBB and Edmunds). Decide what you think is a fair price for the car, based upon its popularity, availability and your need to drive that make and model. Remember that there’s money changing hands that you won’t see; dealers get holdback (generally 2% or 3% of the car’s sticker price) from the manufacturer, and may get additional manufacturer’s incentives for selling targeted volumes. Even if a dealership sell you a car at invoice, they’re still making a slim profit.

– Don’t fall for the bait and switch. See an ad for a car at an unbelievably good price, only to find out the dealer just “sold the last one”? Is he willing to make it up to you by selling a different car for only a few thousand more? That’s called “bait” (the car that never really existed at a once-in-a-lifetime price) and “switch” (the car that the dealer is now willing to sell you at list price). How about this: You want an AWD Honda Element but you live in Florida. The dealer tells you, “Sorry, we can’t get them here”, which really translates to, “I wouldn’t sell enough to justify keeping them in stock, and I really want to sell you something from my bloated inventory”. If the dealer you’re at can’t or won’t locate the car you want, move on to another dealership that’s willing to work with you.

– Don’t be afraid to be rude. I’ve walked out of showrooms because a salesman has pissed me off, and you should be willing to do the same thing. If the salesman is making you uncomfortable in any way, don’t waste your time asking for a manager. Simply get up and go on to the next dealership.

– If you’re trading in a vehicle, prepare to be disappointed. Even though you’ll find “trade in” values on sites like KBB and Edmunds, I’ve never had a dealer offer me anywhere close to that number, regardless of the car’s condition. You’ll make more money if you sell the car on your own, but that can be a big pain in the ass if you still owe money on it. Decide in advance if the convenience of trading in a used car is worth the cost.

– Beware of leases. Sure, they make sense for some drivers, but they can be a huge money pit if you exceed the annual mileage (typically somewhere between 10k and 12k miles) or return the car with damage or excess wear. If you trade up every two or three years, don’t customize your ride and drive less than 10k miles per year, then a lease may be worth looking into. If you don’t fall into that category, you’re probably better off buying a new car.

– Talk to your insurance agent before you buy a new car. Chances are, you premiums will be higher because it’s new, even if it’s the same make and model you’ve been driving for years. If you’re going from a four door Buick to a Corvette ZR-1, your premiums will be much, much higher. Be sure to factor the increased cost into your budget, because nothing sucks more than realizing you can’t afford to own the car you just purchased.

Readers of Germany’s “Off Road” magazine have voted the Mercedes Benz Unimog as the number one vehicle for cross country travel. With capabilities like those shown above, it’s no wonder why.

Unimogs, built by Daimler in Woerth, Germany, are used by military forces throughout the EU. In civilian trim, they’re used for everything from fire fighting to farming, and retired military ‘mogs have a cult following worldwide. If any readers have a ‘mog they’d like to see on these pages, drop me a line and I’ll hook you up.

Source: The Auto Channel

Known as “Mr. Frugal” by his friends, Jason could fix just about anything.

Source: There I Fixed It

Smart USA may have more to worry about than Toyota: January sales of it’s mainstay Fourtwo model are down a whopping 84.3 percent compared to January of 2009. Only 279 Smart Fortwos were sold in the US last month, compared to 1,776 units a year ago.

Panned by reviewers for it’s lack of power, quirky handling in crosswinds and shift-logic- gone-mad transmission, the Smart enjoyed moderate U.S. sales success when gasoline prices climbed into the stratosphere. American buyers have cooled to the car, unimpressed with its fuel mileage rating of 36 mpg and diminutive size. In a country where big equals safe, Smart will need a major PR campaign to salvage what is proving to be a disastrous year.

Source: Wheels

I grew up turning wrenches in the family garage, and really miss the cars that were a dime a dozen back in the day. You still see plenty of Impalas, Fairlanes, Thunderbirds and even the occasional Rambler, but what you don’t see much of anymore are cars from American Motors Corporation. James Lafevers sent in pics of his 1968 AMC Ambassador SST, a trim line that was introduced in 1968 to make the car more appealing to younger buyers. The Ambassador was the first U.S. built automobile to feature air conditioning as standard equipment; in fact, the only other manufacturer to include A/C in 1968 was Rolls Royce.

Though the SST was dropped from the AMC model line in 1973, the Ambassador’s soldiered on for another year until production ended in 1974.

General Motors has announced 3.9% financing for up to 60 months on GM Certified pre-owned Pontiac G6 models. Since there are plenty of the midsize coupes and sedans in new inventory, moving used stock has proven to be a challenge, even with GM’s 12 month, 12,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty.

The G6, a staple of rental car fleets across the US and Canada, has not proven to be popular with potential collectors buying a piece of Pontiac’s legacy. Now if they had any unwanted 2009 G8 GXPs in CPO inventory, I might be interested…

Source: Autoevolution

On the fence between that certified used Camry and a really clean Ferrari 360? Leaning towards the Camry because it comes with a warranty? Well, stress no longer, since Ferrari has announced a 24 month warranty on certified pre owned models. The optional coverage is available for a wide range of models, including the 360, F430, 550/575, 599 and 612 series cars. To qualify, the car must be less than eight years old and have no more than 90,000 kilometers (56,000 miles) on the clock.

Source: Autoblog

Today’s Toyota bitch slap comes from Japan’s transportation ministry, who is (rightfully) pissed off at Toyota for not addressing software-related brake issues on current generation Prius models. The software glitch causes a one second delay in braking when the pedal is applied, which can be a serious issue at highway speeds.

Toyota acknowledged the issue and admitted to working on the best way to notify existing Prius owners, but stopped short of announcing another recall (yet). When released, it’s expected that the software update can be done at a Toyota dealership as part of a routine service.

So you’re not the type to buy or lease a new vehicle, and even “Certified Pre-Owned” cars are more coin than you’re willing to part with. So, Mr. Cash-and-carry, how can you avoid getting ripped off when buying a used car? There are no absolutes, and even well respected manufacturers build lemons from time to time, but here are my top ten pointers for buying a good used car at a fair price:

1) Know EXACTLY what you want. Don’t shop for a “sporty car” or a “sedan” or a “pickup truck”. Shop for a 2000 to 2005 Mazda Miata, or a 2001 – 2003 VW Passat or a 1997 – 2000 Ford F150. If you stay focused, you are less likely to be lured into buying a car you have NOT done research on just because it appears to be cleaner or in better shape. Focus, people!

2) Do your homework. Once you decide on a year, brand and model, learn all you can about it. Sites such as Edmunds and Kelley Blue Book are good places to start and can give you a feel for regional pricing of the car you’re shopping for. Better yet, brand and model specific forums will give you much more in-depth information on reliability, problem areas, tuning and prices. Google is your friend here, and I recommend you visit several message boards to get a feel for the type of information on each.

3) Once you’ve found a vehicle, Carfax is your friend. Many sellers now offer a Carfax report as proof that their vehicle is worth buying; don’t be afraid to ask for one, especially if you’re buying from a dealer. Running a Carfax report on a specific VIN will tell you how many owners the car has had, whether it’s been in any accidents, what recalls the car has been subjected to and what the mileage should be. Walk away from any cars that have bad histories (major accidents, many owners, unclear mileage, etc.), but be aware that Carfax is not omniscient: accidents, if unreported to police or insurance companies, will not show up in a Carfax report.

4) Remember, cars purchased at dealers will cost more money than private party sales. The trade off is that you should have SOME recourse with a dealer should the car turn out to be a lemon. Many new car dealers offer limited warranties on used cars, which may give you some piece of mind. New car dealers can also be a source for “lease take back” vehicles, which can be a good choice for a used car.

5) Beware of small used car dealers. Not all of ‘em are shady, but many of them are. Never buy from a used car dealer unless you do the research on the vehicle you’re buying first. Word of mouth counts for a lot here, too – if a friend or neighbor can recommend a used car dealer from personal experience they may be worth a visit. Megalots like Carmax are the exception here; their vehicles are carefully bought from customers and auctions and inspected prior to sale. You’ll generally pay more than a private party sale, but the megalots generally give you a limited warranty.

6) NEVER buy a vehicle with a salvage title. A salvage title means that an insurance company has written the car off due to accident damage, flood damage, etc. Salvage titled cars typically sell for 20% to 50% less than “clean” titled cars, for good reason – they almost always have problems, and can be difficult to sell or even insure. It doesn’t hurt to see the title in person either; titles with white-out or scratched off information should set off alarm bells. If a deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

7) Personal Inspection – this is obvious, but go over the car with a fine tooth comb (figuratively speaking). You are looking for rust, dents, scratches, transitions in paint color, mismatched body panel gaps, uneven tire wear or other damage. A shiny paint job can be a bad sign – look for evidence that the car was recently repainted (overspray in wheel wells, trunk, door frame, etc). No one wants to spend a lot of money to repaint a car if they’re trying to unload it. Mismatched paint (door to quarter panel, for example) may be a sign of accident damage. “Flat” paint (not as glossy as surrounding areas) may be a sign of body filler. If the seller agrees, use a soft magnet (preferably through a microfiber towel) to check for Bondo. If a fender should be steel and you can’t get a magnet to stick, it may be time to walk away and keep looking.

8 ) Mechanical inspection – this is too lengthy a subject to cover here, since what to look for varies from car to car. It’s always a good idea to have the car checked out by a competent mechanic. Brand specific mechanics are best – don’t take a Volvo to a guy who wrenches on Cadillacs for a living. Walk away from any deals where the owner refuses to let you have the car inspected.

9) Test drive – make sure you take your time here. Look for any problems like:

– Does the car smoke at start up? How about on deceleration?
– Does the car pull to one side?
– How do the brakes feel?
– Where does the clutch grab?
– Any unusual noises?
– How does it feel at idle? Does it accelerate smoothly?
– Does the A/C work? Stereo? Wipers? Lights?
– Any unusual smells? (a sweet smell in the interior can be a sign of leaking coolant from the heater core – just walk away).

10) Can you afford the insurance? This is often overlooked when people shop for a new (used) car. If you’re going from driving a 20 year old Volvo 140 to a 3 year old BMW M3, expect an increase in insurance costs. A BIG, HONKIN’ INCREASE. Depending on your age and record, cars like a Mustang or Camaro may be uninsurable – make sure you know this BEFORE you buy.

Take your time and shop smart. A car is a long term investment, and will last for hundreds of thousands of miles if well cared for. Don’t be afraid to haggle on the price, but remember that the best value is not always the lowest price.

Jimmy’s Garage built their reputation by offering affordable solutions for all of their customer’s repair needs.

Source: There, I Fixed It

Because I’m a sucker for late 60’s Chevy’s, here are a few pics of reader Zane Regan’s ride. It’s a black on black Chevelle with a 350 small block, COMP cam, Hooker headers, Flowmaster exhaust and an Edelbrock carb. I’m guessing those are Cragar SS wheels, which just look RIGHT on pre-1970 Chevelles. More pics after the jump.

Thanks for the pics, Zane – nice ride!

I’ve always been a fan of the original FJ 40 series Land Cruisers, since they made no apologies for being a stout, well built truck that would get you anywhere you needed to go. Need to check the cows in the back pasture, but three feet of snow is in the way? No problem for the Toyota FJ. Want to climb the third Flatiron in Boulder, Colorado, but you’re out of shape? No worries, just make sure your FJ has a winch (for safety) and drive it up the face from eyebolt to eyebolt.

Sadly, the FJ 40 gave way to today’s bloated luxobarge Land Cruisers. Original FJ 40s remain in demand, but time has not been kind to their ungalvanized steel bodies. Original, unmolested examples are as rare as honest politicians, and prices for used FJ 40s in any condition reflect this.

Enter TLC, Inc., and their line of Icon 4×4 trucks. Jonathan Ward, founder of TLC, is considered to be the guru of all things FJ. Starting with original CAD files from Toyota, Ward has created a modernized version of the venerable FJ 40, with no expenses spared. Every component and material used has been chosen for its premium quality and durability. Paint is replaced by powder coating for scratch and chip resistance off road. Several engine options are available, including both gasoline and diesel variants. Suspension travel is a full twelve inches at each corner, ensuring that the Icon will get you anywhere you’d ever want to go.

All this capability comes at a price; $105,000 is what it takes to get in the door, with typical customer builds running between $125k and $140. Check all the option boxes on the order form, and you’re looking at $170. Steep? Sure, but TLC has built nearly sixty to date.

Source: Autopia